This is Part-6a of our multi-part article about how to reduce heating bills.  Al’s Plumbing — in Plano, TX provides Full-Service Plumbing; maintenance, repairs, and replacements for every plumbing component in your home.  Al’s sells and installs gas and electric water heaters.  Al’s is near your home in; Plano, TX; Allen, TX; Frisco, TX; and McKinney, Texas.  We service all homes in southern Collin County, TX, and northeastern Dallas County, TX with no additional travel charges.

Call Al’s Today To Discuss Any Concerns Or Problems You Have With Your Home’s Plumbing. 

We will arrange an appointment at your convenience.

Some History As To WHY Homes Built Before 1950

Did Not Have Wall or Attic Insulation

Pre-1950 Homes Were Likely Built With “Knob & Tube” (K&T) Electrical Wiring. 

TIP: It’s possible that a K&T wired home has been updated with newer electrical wiring.  A Home Inspection can determine this.

*** CAUTION ***

You Can’t Add Insulation To A Home With K&T Electrical Wiring (that’s in use).

The 2008 National Electric Code States: K&T Wiring Cannot Be In Contact With; Loose, Rolled, or Foam Insulation Materials.

• K&T Wiring Must Have Open Air Around It — So The Wiring Can Dissipate Heat.

• K&T wiring has Cloth or Rubber insulation.  If the wire & insulation gets too hot — it can catch on fire.

Knob & Tube Wiring Shown Below

Image Source: YouTube Embedded Video

TEXAS Attic & Wall Insulation R-Value Requirements Over The Years

If your older DFW home’s heating and cooling bills are high — the most significant reasons are likely inadequate attic insulation & air leaks.  If your DFW home was built before 2017, it has less than today’s Attic Insulation requirements.   And, the older the home, the less attic insulation it has (unless insulation was added).  Insulating an attic will pay for itself (in lower heating & cooling costs) within a few years.

TIP: Today, most States use the International Energy Conservation Code (IECC).  Local municipalities may have additional requirements.

As of Dec 2022 — Texas Is Using The 2015 IECC.

Texas Attic & Wall Insulation Requirements Over The Years

TIP: U.S. Building Codes did not require homes to have insulation in their walls until 1965.  TIP: Older homes may have insulation that was added later.

TIP:  Some Texas home builders offered insulation options.  Some Texas home builders chose to add insulation above what was required. 

                                         ATTIC                             WALL

• Before 1965:    none                                none
• 1965-1970: R-13 (3.5″ BATT)              R- 6  (2″ BATT)              Starting in 1965, The Uniform Building Code (UBC) began requiring 2″ batt insulation in homes.
• 1971-1979:  R-19 (6″ BATT)                 R- 6  (2″ BATT)    *3
• 1980’s+:     R-30 (9″ Blown)               R-13 (3.5″ BATT)  *4

TIP: If your DFW home was built after 1979:

1. You don’t need more Wall Insulation.

2. Your home could use more Attic Insulation.

Source: https://www.govinfo.gov/content/pkg/GOVPUB-C13-76d074c01f672c981b5b3334ade195c3/pdf/GOVPUB-C13-76d074c01f672c981b5b3334ade195c3.pdf

2015 IRCC International Residential Conservation Code (IECC):

• Attic: R-38           Wall: R-13 (3.5″ Fiberglass BATT Insulation).  
• 12.75″ Of Blown Fiberglass Insulation = R-38.
• As of Dec. 2022 — Texas uses the 2015 IECC.

2021 IRCC:

• Attic: R-49            Wall: unchanged
• 16.25″ Of Blown Fiberglass Insulation = R-49.

Source: https://homeguides.sfgate.com/kind-wall-insulation-used-early-50s-85855.html

Image Source: Shutterstock

Shown: Blown Fiberglass Attic Insulation

Reduce Heating Bills — Texas Attic & Wall Insulation Building Code Requirements Today

Every 3 years the International Energy Conservation Code (IECC) is updated — to accommodate improved Home-Building Practices & Building Materials.   The IECC is the basis for nearly all States’ Building Codes.  The Current IECC Is 2022.  On 11/01/2016 Texas adopted the 2015 IECC.  In the future, Texas will adopt a later version of the IECC.

Click Here To See The IECC Climate-Zone Map: IECC Climate Zone Map

(If Link Doesn’t Work — Copy This Into Your Browser)

https://basc.pnnl.gov/images/iecc-climate-zone-map

• DFW is located in Climate-Zone- 3 (CZ-3).
• TIP: Texas uses the 2015 International Energy Conservation Code (IECC).
• TIP: Effective Jan 1, 2022 —Texas will use the 2012 International Residential Code (IRC).

2015 IECC:

• Attic Insulation Requirement CZ-3 = R-38.
• 12.75″ Of Blown Fiberglass Insulation = R-38.

• Exterior Wall Insulation For CZ-3 = R-13  (3-1/2″ Fiberglass Batt Insulation).  
• PLUS
• Continuous Insulation on the outside of exterior walls.  Typically Foam Insulation Sheathing Panels are used to meet this requirement for newly-built homes.

TIP: As of Dec. 2022 — Texas Uses The 2015 IECC.

2021 IECC:

• Attic Insulation Requirement CZ-3 = R-49.
• 16.25″ Of Blown Fiberglass Insulation = R-49.

• Exterior Wall Insulation Requirement CZ-3 = (unchanged)

Source: https://eepartnership.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/Texas-2015-IECC_5-17-16.pdf

Source: https://comptroller.texas.gov/programs/seco/code/single-family.php

1. Adding Blown Fiberglass Attic Insulation

Is A Fast & Easy Way To Reduce Heating Bills (& cooling bills). 

Image Source: Shutterstock

Shown: Blown Fiberglass Insulation

In An Existing Home — Adding Attic Insulation is one of the easiest & fastest ways to reduce heating bills + cooling bills.  Blown attic insulation can be professionally installed within a few hours.  Your home will be more comfortable, more quiet, AND your HVAC System will last longer — because it runs less.

TIP-1: If you are adding attic insulation to reduce heating bills — Use the 2021 IECC attic insulation recommendations as a guide for your home.

TIP-2: Should you exceed 2021 IECC insulation recommendations?   That’s not necessary.  The additional insulating ability (per additional inch of attic insulation) — declines with increasing insulation depth.  The 2021 IECC’s highest attic insulation R-Value = R-60.  This begins in Climate Zone-4 — which begins north of Oklahoma and extends through northern Alaska.

Click Here To See The IECC Climate-Zones U.S. Map: IECC Climate Zones Map

(If Link Doesn’t Work — Copy This Into Your Browser: https://basc.pnnl.gov/images/iecc-climate-zone-map)

TIP-3: Should you add extra blown fiberglass insulation to allow for settling?  That’s not necessary.  Blown fiberglass insulation loses only 2% to 4%  of its insulating ability due to settling.  After a few years, blown-in insulation will settle by a few inches, which slightly reduces its insulating performance (see sources * & **) below.  It settles because it was blown into place with large amounts of air.

* Source: https://www.bobvila.com/articles/blown-in-insulation/

** Source: https://homesteady.com/12613527/how-much-does-blown-insulation-settle

AN ADDED BONUS To Reduce Heating Bills

More Attic Insulation Reduces The Amount Of Outdoor Noise Heard Inside A Home.

This can be especially beneficial if you live under an Air Traffic Pattern and /or Near A Busy Road. 

TIP: Due to their large attic vents — Older Homes Experience More Outdoor Noise (heard indoors) Than Newer Homes (details below).

Older Home Attic Ventilation Air-Intake Gable Vent

Image Source: Shutterstock

Shown Above: Larger gable Air-Intake venting in an older home.  Because these vents’ holes point outward — more outdoor noise enters them.

Older Home Attic Ventilation Turbine Air-Exhaust Vent

Shown Just Above: Typical Air-Exhaust Turbine Vents in older homes.  Because these vents’ holes point outward, more outdoor noise enters them.

Newer Homes Attic Ventilation: Air-Intake Soffit Vent

Attic Ventilation Soffit Air-Intake Vents in a newer home (below).  Soffit Vents are quieter than gable vents because their holes point toward the ground.

TIP: Soffit Vents are as effective as gable vents.  To Increase ventilation — more soffit vents can be easily added at any time (detail in the video just below).

To View The Video: Click on the Arrow in the center of the image.

Image Source: YouTube Embedded Vidoe Link

Soffit Attic Air-Intake Venting in a newer home

Newer Homes Attic Ventilation: Ridge-Vent For Air-Exhaust 

Because Ridge Vent holes Are Dramatically Smaller (than gable vents) — less outdoor noise enters them.

TIP: Ridge Vents Run Along The Entire Peak Of The Roof(s).  This allows them to ventilate as good as, or better than, turbine vents.

Shown Just Above: Ridge Vent (at the peak of the roof).

TIP: With a close look, you can see the shingles (at the peak of the roof) have a small gap between them and the shingles just below.  That’s due to the Ridge Vent.

In Existing Homes

2. YES — You Can Add Wall Insulation To Existing Walls To Reduce Heating Bills.

With Our Without Existing Fiberglass Batt Insulation Inside Them.

Image Source: Shutterstock

Shown: Fiberglass Batt Insulation Being Installed

If your DFW home was built before 1980 — It may have None, or as little as 2″ / R-6 fiberglass batt insulation in exterior walls.

TIP: For Homes Built Before 1980 — Some Home Builders Chose To Add More Wall Insulation Than Required By Code.

TIP: If your DFW home was built after 1980 — You Don’t Need More Wall Insulation.

How Much Wall Insulation Does Your Home Have?

2 Ways To (possibly) Determine The Thickness Of Existing Fiberglass Batt Insulation In Exterior Walls

Image Source: Shutterstock

Shown: Outlet With Cover Plate Removed

WARNING: Do Not Stick Anything (including fingers) Inside An Electrical Box.

• Turn The Circuit Breaker Off — For The Electrical Circuit Where The Outlet Is Located.  TIP: Plug In A Lamp To Check That The Circuit Is Off.
• Remove the outlet’s cover plate.
• With A Flashlight — Look through any gaps around the electrical box.
• If a gap(s) exists, Fiberglass Batt insulation will be visible through them.
• TIP: Gaps around the box should be sealed closed with caulk or spray-foam insulation.   In this case, you may be able to see through holes in the electrical box.
• TIP: Fiberglass insulation’s color is often pink or yellow.

• TIP: Before Considering Adding Wall Insulation — Add Attic Insulation to R-38 (13 inches of blown fiberglass OR R-49 (17 inches).
• TIP: If existing attic insulation exists — the total depth of new + old insulation should equal the depths shown above.

• If there appears to be no insulation — you will likely see black paper on the exterior side of the wall studs.
• With no wall existing wall insulation — adding wall insulation will pay for itself in a few years.
• TIP: Before adding wall insulation — Perform Air Leaks Sealing, as it will provide more energy savings (than wall insulation) — and costs much less.

• If there appears to be up to a 1-1/2″ gap between the insulation & drywall.  The batt insulation is likely 2″ thick.  This is R-6.
• With 2″ Existing Wall Insulation:
• Adding wall insulation would pay for itself over several years.
• TIP: Before adding wall insulation — Perform Air Leaks Sealing, as it will provide more energy savings — and costs much less.
• TIP: Part-1 of our article discusses Air Leaks Sealing.

• If the insulation appears to be Nearly touching the drywall.  The batt insulation is likely 3″ thick.  This is R-11.
• If The Insulation appears to be touching the drywall.  The batt insulation is likely 3-1/2″ thick.  This is R-13.
• TIP: You don’t need more wall insulation.
• TIP: Air Leaks Sealing will provide substantial additional energy savings.
• TIP: Part-1 of our article discusses Air Leaks Sealing.

TIP: If You Can’t Determine Exterior Wall Insulation Thickness At An Outlet

The Next Best Way Is To Drill or Cut A Hole In The Drywall.  See All Our Tips Below.

Image Source: Shutterstock

Shown: Exterior Wall Under Construction — Note The Horizontal Board At The Floor

TIP: Inside Texas Homes, exterior walls have 2×4 Walls Studs.  They’re Actually 1.5″ Thick.  Your Baseboard Trim Must Be Taller Than 1.5″ For This To Work.

TIPS: Find A Place Where There Is A Narrow Piece Of Trim (at the floor).

Remove the trim and Drill (drilling is easier than cutting). TIP: drill slowly and don’t drill past the drywall.

OR Cut a hole in the drywall. (it will be covered by the base trim once reinstalled).

If You Drilled A Hole: Fill the hole with caulk before you replace the trim.

If You Cut A Hole: Add caulk around the drywall piece you removed — then reinsert it the reclose the hole. 

This YouTube Video Demonstrates Removing Baseboard Trim

At Time: 1:40 / 2:22 — You Can See The Horizontal Board Under The Drywall.

Foam Insulation Installation Methods 

Spray Foam (left) — For Newly-Built Walls

Injection Foam (right) — For Existing Walls

Injection Foam May Reduce Heating Costs — Depending On How Much Wall Insulation Already Exists.

To View The Video: Click on the Arrow in the center of the image.

Image Source: YouTube Embedded Video Link

Injection Foam’s Installation Method Differs — Is Based On The Home’s Exterior

TIP:  Injection foam can also be installed from inside the home.

• Brick: 5/8 Inch Holes Are Drilled (In The Motor Between Bricks).  Motor patches are installed after insulating.

• Stucco: 5/8 Inch Holes Are Drilled In The Stucco.  Motor patches are installed after insulating.  Patches must be painted to match stucco color. 

• Home With Siding:  Strips of siding are removed (see photo below).  The siding is reinstalled after insulating.

Click Here To See The Injection Foam Gun & Hole Size Required (brick or stucco home) For Injected Spray Foam: Injection Spray Foam – Required Hole Size.

(If Link Doesn’t Work — Copy This Into Your Browser)

https://www.google.com/search?q=exterior+wall+patch+after+foam+insulation+is+added+to+existing+home&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwjk8euv8-f7AhWsj2oFHUADBpYQ2-cCegQIABAA&oq=exterior+wall+patch+after+foam+insulation+is+added+to+existing+home&gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQA1DvC1iUSWDxTmgCcAB4AIABigGIAa8MkgEEMjMuMZgBAKABAaoBC2d3cy13aXotaW1nwAEB&sclient=img&ei=07uQY6S8CqyfqtsPwIaYsAk&bih=535&biw=1097#imgrc=1UuRCIvJiPFGeM

Reduce Heating Bills With Injection Foam Can be Installed In An Existing Wall

With or Without Existing Fiberglass Batt Insulation

To View The Video: Click on the Arrow in the center of the image.

Image Source: YouTube Embedded Video Link

Note: For Demonstration Purposes — Plexiglass Covers The Areas Where Injection Foam Is Being Installed Just Above.

SHOWN: Injection Foam Insulation Being Added To An Existing Wall With Existing Fiberglass Batt Insulation.

The Differences Between Injection Foam AND Spray Foam Insulation

With Injection Spray Foam — any installation-related problems are hidden.

Low-Density Injection Foam Insulation:

• TIP: If you already have R-11 (3″ batt) or R-13 (3.5″ batt) insulation in your walls — you won’t benefit enough from Injection Foam Insulation to justify the cost.
• TIP: If your DFW home was built 1980 or later, you don’t need more wall insulation.

• Injection Foam is a Retrofit Installation within Existing walls.  It can be also installed where fiberglass batt insulation exists.
• Injection Foam Does Not Expand.  Source: www.retrofoamofmichigan.com/blog/injection-foam-insulation-spray-foam-insulation-difference
• It Achieves R-values similar to fiberglass batt insulation (around R-3.5 per 1 inch of foam).

• TIP: Older homes leak tremendous amounts of outdoor air into the home.
• Injection Foam Mostly Seals Air Leaks in walls. This may contribute as much or more energy savings as the insulation R-Value.
• 3.5” of open-cell injection foam is considered Nearly AIR Impermeable).  Note: 2×4 lumber is actually 1.5″ wide X 3.5″ deep.

• TIP: Parts; 1, 5A & 5C of our article address; air leaks sealing thoughout the house + at Windows + at Exterior Doors.

Injection Foam Can Be Either: “open-cell” or “closed-cell“.

• Open-Cell means the air-bubbles pop during installation and remain open.  Its texture is similar to angel food cake.
• Open-Cell Injection Foam — is Water-Vapor Permeable.  This means water-vapor (created inside the home) can pass through the foam to outdoors.
• Open-Cell Injection Foam is for Above-Ground exterior walls.

• Closed-Cell Injection Foam — is a Water-Vapor Retarder.  This means water-vapor can’t easily pass through the foam to outdoors.
• Closed-Cell Injection Foam is for Below-Ground exterior walls (like for a finished basement).
• This is because water-vapor (within the soil) enters the basement through its walls.

Source: https://continuingeducation.bnpmedia.com/article_print.php?C=1589&L=353

Source: https://www.mullinscompany.com/open-cell-vs-closed-cell-spray-foam-insulation

Injection Foam Can Also Be Installed From Inside The House.

It’s a “Retrofit“ installation.  With Injection Foam — any installation-related problems are hidden.

Injection Foam Can Be Installed Outdoors Or Indoors

To View The Video: Click on the Arrow in the center of the image.

Image Source: YouTube Embedded Video Link

Shown: Indoor Injection Foam Installation 

Spray Foam Installation

Spray Foam Is For New Construction — It’s Installed Before Drywall.

With Spray Foam — any installation-related problems are easily identified.

To View The Video: Click on the Arrow in the center of the image.

Image Source: YouTube Embedded Video Link

Shown: Spray Foam Installation 

TIP: Spray Foam Installation Is Done In Multiple Thin Layers

More Details For Spray & Injection Foam To Reduce Heating Bills

Most foam insulation is made with polyurethane.  It’s a two-part chemical composition that creates gas bubbles when blended.  After installation, the foam sets up quickly.

The Chemical Additives differentiate foams — in both performance and environmental qualities.

Some foams meet Greenguard Indoor Air Quality Standards.  These contain propellants that have no impact on the ozone layer or global warming.

Open-Cell Foam

• Open-Cell foam is for Above-Ground Walls.  This is because it allows Water-Vapor to Pass Through.
• Closed-Cell foam is for Below-Ground Walls.  This is because it’s a Water-Vapor Retarder.

• The blowing-agent for open-cell injection foam is water.  When mixed it reacts with air to become Carbon Dioxide (CO2).
• Because CO2 expands quickly, the bubbles typically burst before the foam sets.
• Hence the term: “Open Cell” foam.

• Open-Cell foam insulating ability: R-value = 3.6 per 1 inch.
• Open-cell foam provides an Air-Barrier  That Has Water-Vapor Breathability.
• Open-cell has about twice the noise-reduction capacity as closed-cell foam.

Closed-Cell Foam

• Closed-Cell foam is for Below-Ground Walls.  This is because it’s a Water-Vapor Retarder.

• Closed-Cell foam’s Blowing-Agent’s Gasses expand more slowly than Open Cell Foam.
• This allows the foam to set before the bubbles burst.
• Hence the term: “Closed Cell” foam.
• Closed Cell foam insulating ability:   R-6.5 per 1 inch of foam insulation.
• Closed-cell foam provides an Air-Barrier + a Water-Vapor Retarder.

TIP: The air bubbles in Closed Cell foam won’t transfer heat well (a good thing).  It’s much like the Argon Gas between the panes of Low-E windows.  Because Argon Gas is denser than air, it doesn’t transfer heat as well (as air).  Argon Gas; occurs naturally in the environment, does not contribute to Global Warming, and isn’t harmful to plants or animals.

Source: https://www.architectmagazine.com/technology/products/product-review-spray-foam-insulation_o

Spray Foam

• Expands up to 30-60 times (its liquid volume) upon being sprayed.
• It’s R-value of R-3.4 (open cell) to R-6.7 (closed cell) per 1 inch.
• As Compared — fiberglass batt insulation R-Value R-3.5 per 1 inch.

Spray Foam & Injection Foam Are Either

• Light-Density Open-Cell Water-Vapor Permeable (for above-ground exterior walls).

OR

• Medium-Density Closed-Cell  Water-Vapor Retarder (for below-ground exterior walls).

For The Proper Chemical Reaction — Both Foams Require The Proper Ratio Of Each Ingredient 

• Both Foam Formulations — require the correct ratio of the “A” & “B” components.
• The correct ratio must be maintained to ensure the proper chemical reaction occurs.

Outdoor Temperature Can Affect Both Foams During Installation

• The Foam & The Walls’ Temperature are important.
• Overly cold temperatures can prevent the foam to generate enough heat.  This causes the foam not to expand properly or bond well.
• Walls that are too hot can also cause quality issues.
• Manufacturers provide high and low-temperature limits for each product.

Foam Insulation Installation Equipment May Be Key To Ensuring The Correct Result

• Foam Installation Rigs can be outfitted with a “Fault-Interruption Ratio”.
• If the ratio of chemicals isn’t correct — the Rig shuts down until the problem is corrected.
• There’s also a Temperature Monitor.
• The Rig produces printouts, as proof of proper ratio.

Source:  https://www.buildinggreen.com/blog/foam-place-insulation-7-tips-getting-injection-and-spray-foam-right

TIP: Ask Potential Contractors If Their Equipment Provides A Print-Out Of Results During Foam Installation.

3. Adding An Attic Radiant-Heat Barrier 

TIP: Attic Radiant-Heat Barriers (attached to roof rafters – the angled boards) Are For Homes Located Within The Southern 1/3 Of The Country.

TIP: A Perforated Foil Radiant-Heat Barrier (just above the attic insulation) May Have Merit — For Homes Located Within The Center 1/3 Of The Country.

TIP: A Perforated Foil Radiant-Heat Barrier (just above the attic insulation) Has Merit — For Homes Located Within The Northern 1/3 Of The Country.

The Video Below Discusses Both Installations PLUS Which installation is right for your home.

Image Source: Shutterstock.com

Shown: Foil Radiant-Heat Barrier 2 Installation Methods

NOTE: Ductwork In The Attic Is Common In Homes Built On A Slab Foundation.

When you are in the sun — you can feel its Radiant-Heat on your skin.  Walk into the shade, and you suddenly feel cooler.  The sun shining on a roof generates a lot of radiant-heat which makes its way into the attic.  On a hot, sunny, summer day in the southern 1/3 of the U.S. — attic temperatures may reach as high as 170 degrees.

Heat Travels Toward Cold — Year Round

During summer, attic heat forces itself into a home’s living spaces through the attic insulation and air leaks in ceilings.  With less attic insulation, more outdoor heat enters your home’s living spaces.

Copy This Link Into Your Browser To See A Thermal-Camera Image Of An Attic Temperature Of 170 Degrees: Thermal-Image Of Attic At 170 F Degrees

(If Link Doesn’t Work — Copy This Into Your Browser:)

https://www.google.com/search?q=thermal+image+of+attic+at+170+degrees&oq=thermal+image+of+attic+at+170+deg&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j33i160l3.10823j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#imgrc=i9B3VGd9P-GlGM

Image Source: Amazon.com Embedded Link

Shown: Perforated Foil Attic Radiant-Heat Barrier

Click On Image To: View Product, Read Details, or Purchase From Amazon.com

There are several types of Radiant-Heat Barriers available.  The most effective is Radiant-Heat Barrier Foil.   For Existing Homes — A Foil Radiant-Heat Barrier is typically stapled to the bottom side of the roof rafters (they are the angled boards in the 2nd photo above) in the southern 1/3 of the country.

The bottom & top 2 feet are left open.  This allows cooler air to enter (the area covered with foil) from below.  Then the air heats and rises upward to where it exits (the foiled area).  This is near the top of the attic — then attic ventilation removes the heat to outdoors.

Image Source: Shutterstock

Shown: Attic Ridge-Vent Ventilation — Common In Newer DFW Homes

TIP: You can see the shingles are raised at the peak of the roof.  This is because Attic Ridge-Vent Ventilation Was Installed Under Them.

Image Source: Shutterstock.com

Shown: Turbine Attic Vent — Common In Older DFW Homes

This YouTube Video Shows Foil Attic Radiant-Heat Barrier Being Installed

Image Source: YouTube Embedded Video Link

Shown: Foil Attic Radiant-Heat Barrier Being Installed In The Southern 1/3 Of The U.S.

This Was Part-6A Of Our Multi-Part Article For Ways To Reduce Heating Bills With Your Existing HVAC System.   

Depending on the age of your home, you may be able to reduce heating bills more with our suggestions–  than with a new furnace.  Part-6A covers; Attic Insulation, Retrofit Wall Insulation, and Radiant-Heat Barrier for the attic.  You can implement our money-saving efforts at; No to Moderate Costs.  Different sections of this article address various components in your home — each section’s title advises what’s covered.

Al’s Plumbing — in Plano, TX provides Full-Service Plumbing; maintenance, repairs, and replacements for every plumbing component in your home.  Al’s sells and installs gas and electric water heaters.  Al’s is near your home in; Plano, TX; Allen, TX; Frisco, TX; and McKinney, Texas.  We service all homes in southern Collin County, TX, and northeastern Dallas County, TX with no additional travel charges.

Call Al’s Today To Discuss Any Concerns Or Problems You Have With Your Home’s Plumbing. 

We will arrange an appointment at your convenience.

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