The Article Details The Primary Causes Of Declining A/C Efficiency With Age. The good news is that many issues with declining A/C efficiency are preventable — with proper maintenance. Al’s Plumbing, Heating & A/C in Plano, Texas provides maintenance & repairs for all brands of Central A/C, Gas & Electric Furnace, and Heat Pumps. Additionally, we sell and install new HVAC Systems from American Standard (same company as Trane), Ameristar (same company as American Standard), and Coleman HVAC (same company as York HVAC).
Al’s also provides full-service plumbing maintenance, repairs, and replacements for every plumbing component in your home. Al’s sells and installs Rheem Professional Series gas & electric water heaters, and tankless water heaters. Al’s is near your home in Plano, TX; Allen, TX; and Frisco, TX. We service all homes in northeastern Dallas County, TX, southern Collin County, TX, and southern Denton County, TX with no additional travel charge.
Call Al’s today to discuss any concerns or problems you have with your HVAC System or Plumbing. We will arrange an appointment at your convenience.
Primary Causes Of Declining A/C Efficiency With Age
This article Doesn’t tell you to replace your HVAC System due to declining efficiency. Instead, we detail the top reasons for declining A/C efficiency as it ages. Many problems can be identified and corrected with an Annual A/C Inspection & Tune-up — and performing any; repairs, upgrades, cleaning, and maintenance if needed.
Image Source: Dreamstime.com
We found a 2018 Long-Term, Scientific Study about declining A/C efficiency with age. The Research Study reported findings on declining efficiency of 56 residential Central A/C & Heat Pumps over a period of 2–5 years. These HVAC Systems were in Florida homes — where A/C operated more than 1,500 hours annually.
Copy This Link Into Your Browser To Read The Research Report: http://publications.energyresearch.ucf.edu/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/FSEC-PF-474-18.pdf
Our Summary Of This Research Report For Declining A/C Efficiency With Age
Using an analytical approach, air conditioning performance average declines are 3-.7% per year.
Declining A/C Efficiency (As It Ages) Is Primarily Due To:
- The US Dept. Of Energy (DOE) states: “3% per year” — but their number represents homes throughout the U.S.
- The study determined an average annual decrease in cooling efficiency of 5.2% per year in the Florida homes studied.
- With an average decline of -5.2% — individual HVAC Systems declines ranged from -8% TO -40% per year.
- Many of the larger declines are likely due to poor HVAC System maintenance.
- System Age, Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER), and System Size — were the top reasons for efficiency declines.
- We add one more — poor or no maintenance. We discuss the top (lack of maintenance) reasons for A/C declining efficiency.
- The cooler the home is kept — the faster the system wears out.
- This is equally true of Poorly Insulated Homes & Homes Leaking Excessive (outdoor) Air Into The Home.
- System Size/Capacity appears to be the largest factor for declining efficiency.
- Larger systems have higher levels of decreasing efficiency — and they have a shorter life expectancy.
- For each additional +1 ton (+12,000 BTU) in capacity — cooling efficiency decreases up to +3% per year.
- This may be due to the higher air flow with larger HVAC Systems.
- This contributes to higher levels of air-filter clogging and indoor cooling-coil fouling.
- Another contributing factor is if the existing ductwork & registers are undersized for the HVAC System’s air flow requirements.
- Higher SEER equipment appeared more resistant to decreasing efficiency.
- A SEER-20, 3-ton / 36,000 BTU system declined up to -1% less per year.
- SEER-14 is required for a newly installed Central A/C in DFW.
1. Dirty Furnace Filter — Decrease In Efficiency: Up to -15%
Image Source: Can Stock Photo
Shown: A very dirty furnace filter on left. A new, clean filter on the right.
The United States Department Of Energy (DOE) States: “A dirty or clogged filter decreases A/C efficiency by up to 15%. **
Lack Of Furnace Filter Maintenance is a Top Reason For Declining A/C Efficiency With Age.
Filter maintenance reduces cooling/heating costs AND makes your HVAC System last longer. And, you can easily do it yourself.
A dirty furnace air filter restricts airflow throughout the System — making it run longer and harder than needed.
Check the furnace filter monthly. Choose a date that’s easy to remember (perhaps your birth date).
Then check the filter each month on that day. Replace the filter if needed.
Furnace Filters Remove Airborne Particles. Furnace Filters Can’t Remove Airborne Gasses.
- Bacteria, viruses, molds, animal dander, dust mites, & pollen
- Dust & dust mites
- Pollen and other allergens
- Skin flaking off our body
- Pet dander
- Radon is a colorless, odorless, tasteless gas. Radon occurs naturally and can’t be detected without testing. Radon can build up inside of your home, coming in through openings in the foundation and walls. **
- Radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer — killing 21,000 people each year. **
- Tobacco smoke
- Auto emissions
** Source: American Lung Assoc. https://www.lung.org/blog/spooky-things-in-house
Volatile Organic Compounds
NOTE: Any “new smell” are VOC’s off-gassing into the air. Once off-gassing is complete — it no longer smells new. A great example of VOC’s off-gassing is vinyl shower curtains.
- Paint, varnish, caulk & adhesives
- Carpet, vinyl flooring, laminated-wood flooring (a thin layer of real wood on top of a backing made of; vinyl or composite wood (glued together sawdust or wood particles)
- Upholstered (fabric) furniture
- Plastic shower curtain
- Chemical fumes (VOCs) emitted from household products — such as air fresheners, cleaning products, cosmetics,
- Dry cleaned clothes.
- Any Man-Made Scent (versus natural scents) — has Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs). Some VOCs are known to cause cancer.
- In order for you to smell the fragrance — the chemicals used to create it must leach into the air.
- A nice smelling fragrance’s ingredients may be as unhealthy as inhaling nail-polish remover odor.
- Fragrance ingredients are considered “Trade Secrets” — for that reason, they don’t have to be disclosed to the consumer.
Top Reasons Why Furnace Air Filters Need To Be Replaced More Frequency
NOTE: Vacuuming a Furnace filter may help it last longer. Once the filter looks dirty (no longer the color as when new (even after vacuuming) — it’s time to replace it.
The cost to replace a dirty air filter will be quickly repaid by lower cooling/heating costs.
- Air Filter Thickness. Typical furnace filter thickness range from 1 — 6 inches. Thicker filters last longer and reduce airflow less as they become dirty.
- Air Filter MERV Rating. The higher the MERV — the more frequently the filter must be replaced (because it clogs faster).
- A Merv-8 filter catches most airborne particles — and clogs more slowly.
- A MERV-11 catches additional particles.
- A MERV13 catches nearly all particles — and clogs more quickly.
- Where the home is located. During winter, a furnace filter will last longer in DFW than in Minneapolis. During summer, the filter will need to be replaced more frequently in DFW.
- Return-Air ductwork leakage. With attic ductwork, leaking return-air ducts draw in outdoor air through the attic’s ventilation ports.
- During DFW summer — outdoor air will have much more dust than recycled indoor air.
- Household size
- Shedding pets
- Home size
- Home Age (older homes leak in more outdoor air)
- How much the HVAC System runs (based on desired indoor temperatures)
- Presence & number of portable room-size air cleaners (if any)
- Plus other factors unique to an individual household. Example: A household member has Allergies or Asthma.
** Source: https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/maintaining-your-air-conditioner
2. Leaking Ductwork — Decrease In Cooling Efficiency: -10% to -25%.
Most homes’ ductwork leaks 10-25% of the cooled/heated air passing through it. *4
Image Source: Shutterstock
SHOWN: Metal Ductwork
On A Side Note:
If your home has metal ductwork — you don’t have to replace it with flexible ductwork.
- If a new HVAC System has similar air flow — the existing metal ductwork will work as is.
- A Central A/C’s Indoor Cooling Coil (inside ductwork or furnace and can’t be seen without removing a panel) — is designed to operate at 400-900 Cubic Feet Of Air Movement (CFM).
- The larger the A/C — the higher Indoor Cooling Coil’s capacity.
- As compared — the A/C Outdoor Unit is rated at up to 1,000 CFM.
- An Air Duct supplies air (from the furnace) To A Room.
- A Return-Air Grill removes air From A Room — and returns it to the furnace.
- Residential ductwork is described using terms like a tree (see just below).
- The Main/Trunk air duct is the largest duct. It operates at 700-900 CFM.
- Large branches serve multiple small branches. They operate at 600-800 CFM.
- Small branches serve 1 room — and operate at 400 CFM.
NOTE: When New — Disposable Furnace Filters handle 700-750 CFM.
- If you are installing a new, larger, HVAC System with higher air flow capacity — the existing metal ductwork can typically be upgraded to accommodate the higher air flow.
- This often requires upgrades to Return-Air Ductwork (air going back to the furnace).
** Source: https://inspectapedia.com/aircond/Air_Flow_Rates.php
Lower Cooling/Heating Bills (By An Average of 43%) — By Testing & Sealing Ductwork, Plus Eliminating Airflow Restriction(s) — As Needed
- Leaking ductwork is a well-hidden reason for declining a/c efficiency with age.
- Typical ductwork in U.S. homes reduces the HVAC System’s efficiency by an average of 43%. **
- This is due to:
- 1. Air Leaks
- 2. Airflow Reduction(s) caused by poorly designed/installed ductwork.
- This causes the HVAC System to work harder and longer — which wears it out faster and increases cooling & heating bills.
** Source: https://www.nationalcomfortinstitute.com/pro/index.cfm?pid=1779
Depending On The Home’s Age — Many Older DFW Homes’ Original Metal Ductwork Was Never Sealed When It Was Installed
- Some homes had duct tape installed. Duct tape fails within days in attics during DFW summers (attic temps up to 160 degrees).
- Over the years, other ductwork sealers may have failed.
- Today, HVAC Contractors use Mastic Ductwork Sealant. Mastic is a very sticky, non-hardening sealer. It’s applied with a paintbrush.
Click Here To See Older Metal Ductwork Upgraded With Mastic Sealer: Older Metal Ductwork Updated With Mastic Sealer
NOTE: Every location where you see new Mastic Sealant (darker gray) was likely leaking air.
- Another great ductwork sealer is Foil Duct-Sealing Tape. For DIY folks — foil tape is not messy to work with (Mastic is very messy).
Though Al’s Plumbing, Heating & A/C doesn’t endorse any specific brand of Foil Tape. We mention: 3M (brand) — Aluminum Foil Tape 3381 (model of tape) because 3M provides heat-tolerance specification.
In Their Technical Data Sheet, 3M States: “Works In Temperatures Ranging From -40°F TO 250°F.” A DFW attic can reach 160 degrees during the height of summer.
Copy The Link below Into Your Browser To See The Manufacturer’s Technical Data Sheet — which lists temperature-range tolerance:
This YouTube Video Shows Both Mastic & Foil-Tape Being Installed To Seal Metal Ductwork
Image Source: Embedded YouTube Link
There Is A Test To Determine The Amount Of Ductwork Leakage
Image Source: Youtube Embedded Video
Most Newer DFW Homes Have Flexible Ductwork
Flex Ductwork Is Notably More Prone To Installation Errors & Age-Related Failures (than metal ductwork)
Image Source: Shutterstock
SHOWN: Flexible Ductwork
IMProperly Installed Ductwork — Common InstallationErrors
- Duct length longer than needed — causing needless airflow restriction.
- Unsupported duct runs — causing needless airflow restriction.
- Too many ductwork lines coming off the main/trunk supply line coming from the furnace.
- This causes more air coming from vents closest to the furnace — and less air coming from vents farther from the furnace.
- Kinks and sharp turns — causing needless airflow restriction, or even complete blockage.
- Poorly fastened and sealed connections — leaking cooled & heated air into the attic.
- Unsupported joints between two pieces of flex duct — causing needless airflow restriction and leaking air.
- Flexible ductwork has metal “ribs” (see photo just below). The ribs create more airflow restriction than metal ductwork — which is smooth inside. Metal offers lower airflow resistance, **
- Restricted airflow causes the HVAC System to run longer and harder than it would have to — with correctly installed ductwork.
- Improper installation of flex duct is more likely than with metal.
- Improper installation of flex duct creates worse problems than with metal.
- There are additional problems that can arise with flexible ductwork — that don’t happen with metal ductwork.
- As it ages, flexible ductwork becomes brittle — making it much more prone to deterioration than metal (which seldom deteriorates if kept dry).
- Flex duct is good for only the lifetime of the HVAC System it was installed with. Flex ductwork must be replaced when the HVAC System is.
** Source: https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/article/should-flex-duct-be-banned
Copy The Link Below Into Your Browser To Read An Article About Poorly Installed Flexible Ductwork:
Examples Of IMProperly Installed Flex Duct
A. Click Here To See Improperly Installed Flexible Ductwork That’s Crushed & Kinked: Flexible Ductwork That’s Bent Too Much
B. Click Here To See Improperly Installed Flexible Ductwork That Has Collapsed Due To No Support: Collapsed Flex Ductwork Due To No Support
C. Click Here To See Improperly Installed Flexible Ductwork Piled On Top Of Each Other: Flex Ductwork Piled On Top Of Other Ductwork
Image Source: Shutterstock
SHOWN: Flexible Ductwork
A Guide To Proper Flex Duct Installation
There’s A Universal Guide For Flexible Ductwork Installation: “Flexible Duct Performance & Installation Standards”. It’s also known as the “Green Book”.
Copy This Link Into Your Browser To Read This Manual: https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/6d/6dfdac1c-85d7-44a4-a7aa-1dc25fc902df.pdf
Highlights From The Green Book:
- A piece of flex duct that’s 8 feet long (as it comes from the carton) — has a total equivalent length of 28 feet (of flex duct stretched out).
- For this reason — flex duct runs must not have excess length.
- Bends must be equal to — or larger than the duct’s diameter.
- One 90-degree bend (or two 45-degree bends) reduces airflow — equivalent to 20 feet (of flex duct stretched out).
- Fittings connecting to a piece of flex duct shall be at least 2 inches long.
- Sleeves connecting 2 pieces of flex duct together shall be at least 4 inches long.
- Use Mastic Sealer at every connection.
- Flexible Ductwork May Rest On Top Of Ceiling Joists, And Within Roof Trusses — provided the manufacturer’s support-spacing guidance is followed AND if allowed by local Building Code.
- Staps supporting (hanging) flex duct shall be 1-1/2 inch wide
- Hanging straps must be installed at spacing of 4 feet or less.
- Hanging straps must not compress the flexible ductwork’s inner core.
- Long horizontal duct runs shall have enough straps the no flex duct sags shall exceed 1/2″.
- Supports must be installed on each side of bends in flex duct.
- A support shall be installed at any connection between two pieces of flex duct.
- Flex duct must extend straight outward for 1duct diameter (or more) before making a bend.
Examples Of Properly Installed Flex Duct
A. Click Here To See Properly Installed Flex Ductwork: Properly Installed Flexible Ductwork
Note how well the ductwork is supported — there are no excessing sags in ductwork between supports (up to a 1/2″ sag is acceptable).
B. Click Here To See Properly Installed Flex Ductwork: Properly Installed Flexible Ductwork
Note how well the ductwork is supported — there are no sags in ductwork between supports.
Image Source: Shutterstock
SHOWN: Roof Trusses. The bottom of roof trusses doubles as the ceiling joists. Ceiling joists are what the ceilings’ drywall is attached.
C. Click Here To See Properly Installed Flex Ductwork: Properly Installed Flexible Ductwork
NOTE: It’s acceptable to lay flex duct inside roof trusses (shown) — as long as there are no ductwork sags between trusses.
D. Click Here To See Properly Installed Flex Ductwork: Properly Installed Flexible Ductwork
Note: It’s acceptable to lay flex duct on top of ceiling joists. — as long as there are no ductwork sags between joists.
Note: How the connection between flex duct lines is properly connected and supported.
Potential Problems With Flex Duct As It Ages
1. Click Here To See Flexible Ductwork That Has It’s Original Outer Plastic Casing Falling Off (due to becoming brittle): Failed Flexible Ductwork Casing
2. Click Here To See Flexible Ductwork That Came Apart At A Seam: Flexible Attic Ductwork Separated At A Seam
3. Click Here To See Flexible Ductwork With Mice Damage: Flexible Ductwork with hole chewed by rodent.
3. Dirty Indoor Cooling Coil (it’s called: “evaporator” coil) — Decrease In Efficiency: Up to -19%.
NOTE: The indoor cooling-coil (evaporator coil) is inside the furnace or ductwork and can’t be seen without removing a panel.
Another well-hidden reason for declining a/c efficiency with age — a clogged indoor cooling coil. The home’s indoor air passes through the indoor cooling-coil (evaporator coil) while the A/C is running. Air passes through the coil to remove heat and humidity. You must have a clean indoor cooling coil in order for your A/C to perform at maximum efficiency. If the coil is clogged — the A/C must run longer & harder.
A clogged indoor cooling coil reduces the amount of air-flow through the coil. This coil is wet while the A/C is running (it removes humidity) — and wet dust can easily stick to the coil. One study says that if the indoor cooling coil is 1/3 clogged — it reduces A/C’s cooling ability by up to -19%. The clogged coil also wears the HVAC System out 19% faster. *5
Dust & water create a perfect environment for mold growth. When the indoor cooling (evaporator) coil is molded — when the furnace blower fan is running — it’s blowing mold-spores all over your home. The photo we provided shows the dust clogging the indoor cooling coil to be black with mold.,
Click Below To See A Diagram Showing The Location Of The Indoor Cooling (evaporator) A/C Coil:
Click Here To See A Clogged & Molded Indoor Cooling (evaporator) A/C Coil:
Click Here To See A Frozen Indoor Cooling Coil: Frozen Indoor A/C Cooling Coil (scroll down a little)
Note: A Frozen Indoor Cooling Coil Is Due To:
1. Not enough air flowing through the coil. It is typically due to a dirty air filter and/or dirty coil.
2. It can also be due to low refrigerant level.
*5 Source: https://www.airah.org.au/Content_Files/TechnicalPublications/hvac-factsheet-cleaning-coils-09-13.pdf
Dirty Outdoor A/C Outdoor Unit (condenser) Coil — Efficiency Decrease: Up to -30%.
Image Source: DreamsTime.com
The U.S. Dept. Of Energy (DOE) States:
“A dirty condenser coil can increase outdoor unit energy consumption by up to 30%.” ***
Copy The Link Below Into Your Browser To See: Before & After Cleaning Photos Of An Extremely Dirty Outdoor A/C Unit Coil:
*** Source: https://www.buildings.com/article-details/articleid/8282/title/clean-hvac-system-coils-save-energy
Dirty Furnace Blower-Fan Motor And/Or Dirty Furnace Blower-Fan Wheel
Furnace filters don’t remove all the dust flowing through them. If filters were that efficient — they would severely restrict air-flow through the HVAC System. Over time, even with the best furnace filter maintenance, dust will build up on the blower fan and the blower motor. A dirty blower fan cannot move as much as as it’s designed to. A dirty blower motor will overheat. This will affect its performance and cause it to wear out faster.
Click Here To See A Very Dirty Furnace Blower Motor: Very Dirty Furnace Blower Motor
Click Here To See A Very Dirty Furnace Blower-Wheel: Very Dirty Furnace Blower Wheel
Click Here To See A CLEAN Furnace Blower-Wheel & Motor: Clean Furnace Blower (scroll down a little)
Let’s Do The Math — If You Have All These:
leaking ductwork (10-25%)
dirty furnace air filter (up to 15%)
dirty indoor cooling coil (at least 15%)
dirty outdoor unit coil (up to 30%)
20% low on refrigerant (up to 24%)
Your cooling bill is as much as +109% higher if all these problems exist. These same percentages apply to how much faster the A/C is wearing out.
If the HVAC System has to run twice as long — it wears out twice as fast.
All of These Problems Will Be Identified With A Spring A/C Tune-Up.
Low Refrigerant Level. A/C Efficiency Decrease — Up to 100%
Shown: Air Conditioner Refrigerant-Tank & Installation Gauges
Image Source: Shutterstock
An A/C that’s 20% low on refrigerant causes up to -24% decrease in cooling ability.
The actual decrease in A/C efficiency depends on how low the refrigerant level is — so there’s is no average decrease.
To cool at maximum efficiency, an air conditioner (or heat pump) must be fully charged with refrigerant. The lower the refrigerant level — the lower the cooling efficiency. Low refrigerant causes the A/C to run longer & harder — reducing its lifespan and increasing cooling bills. During peak summer heat, an A/C that’s low on refrigerant won’t be able to keep the house cool.
The refrigerant must stay at a specific charge/level. If the refrigerant level drops, it reduces the air conditioner’s cooling ability. Refrigerant doesn’t get used up. If refrigerant is low — it’s due to; a leak (most common) or loose connections somewhere along the refrigerant line.
Low refrigerant reduces the indoor cooling coil’s ability to cool indoor air. If the refrigerant level drops enough, the indoor cooling coil will begin to freeze.
Low refrigerant also lowers the efficiency of the outdoor A/C unit. The compressor in the outdoor unit is designed to operate with a full refrigerant level. If refrigerant gets low enough, the outdoor unit’s compressor will work longer and harder — shortening its lifespan.
On A Side Note…
1. Many DFW Home Suffered Broken Water Pipes During The Winter Storm Of 2021.
- Plumbers had to cut holes in walls that are large enough to provide the access needed to repair the pipe.
- Plumbers repair pipes — they don’t repair drywall.
- Holes in drywall must be closed up with new drywall and any gaps caulked closed.
- If the hole is not closed, outdoor air leaks into the home through the hole.
- This applies to interior walls too.
2. Many Older DFW Homes’ Have Gaps (that can’t be seen because they’re hidden) That Were Never Sealed
Though the information just below doesn’t address declining A/C efficiency with age — it details how to eliminate needless A/C & Heating Demand.
For Example: Every location in walls & ceilings that is not sealed provides a path for the home to Gain Heat During Summer ** — and Lose Heat During Winter.
Heat Constantly Seeks Equilibrium — and, yes, heat (from your attic) moves toward cold (into the air-conditioned living spaces) during summer.” **
Click Here To See A Large Gap Between Ductwork & Ceiling: Gap Between Heat Vent & Ceiling
Click Here To See A Large Gap Between A Bath Vent Fan & Ceiling: Gap In Ceiling At Bath Vent
Click Here To See An Open Hole In The Ceiling At A Light Fixture: Gap In Ceiling At A Light Fixture
Click Here To See Before & After Sealing Around An Electrical Outlet: Before & After Sealing Around Outlet
NOTE: Using caulk, instead of spray-foam, is much less messy. In some cases, a gap may be too wide for caulk — use spray-foam there.
NOTE: If there’s a visible gap between the wall and a light switch or outlet — you can avoid a drywall repair by using oversized covers versus the standard size. Seal the gap and install new, larger cover.
** Source: https://www.networx.com/article/thermodynamics-for-idiots The Website States: Heat constantly seeks equilibrium — and heat moves toward cold until everything is the same temperature.”
Click The Link Below For Our In-Depth Article On Ways To Lower Cooling Costs,
Another Factor That Dramatically Increases Cooling & Heating Costs — Inadequate Insulation
Texas Homes Insulation Levels That Were Common — Or Became Required By Building-Code
Attic Insulation Wall Insulation
- 1950’s: none none
- 1965-1970: R-13 (3.5″ BATT) Wall Insulation: R-6 (2″ BATT)
- 1970’s: R-19 (6″ BATT) Wall R-6 (2″ BATT) *3
- 1980’s: R-30 (9″ Blown) Wall R-13 (3.5″ BATT) *4
- 2014: R-38 (15″ Blown) Wall R-15 *5
- *3 Source: https://snuggpro.com/blog/item/many-homes-built-prior-to-1980-were-built-without-insulation-in-the-walls
- *4 Source: https://www.jlconline.com/how-to/insulation-code-change_o
- *5 As required by the 2012 Edition of the International Building Code (IBC)
Learn More Ways To Lower Cooling & Heating Costs Without Replacing Your HVAC System.
Click Below For Our Articles Detailing These Savings’ Opportunities:
- 75 Ways To Lower Cooling & Heating Costs: 75 Ways To Lower Cooling & Heating Costs
- 25 Uncommon Ways To Lower Heating & Cooling Costs: https://www.alsplumbing.com/lower-heating-costs-20-uncommon-ways-part-1-of-3/
- Lower Heating & Cooling Costs With Attic Insulation: Lower Cooling & Heating Costs With Additional Attic Insulation
The Article Detailed The Top Reasons For Declining A/C Efficiency With Age. Al’s Plumbing, Heating & A/C in Plano, Texas provides maintenance & repairs for all brands of Central A/C, Gas & Electric Furnace, and Heat Pumps. Additionally, we sell and install new HVAC Systems from American Standard (same company as Trane), Ameristar (same company as American Standard), and Coleman HVAC (same company as York HVAC).
Al’s also provides full-service plumbing maintenance, repairs, and replacements for every plumbing component in your home. Al’s sells and installs Rheem Professional Series gas & electric water heaters, and tankless water heaters. Al’s is near your home in Richardson, TX; Garland, TX; and northeastern Dallas, TX. We service all homes in northeastern Dallas County, TX, southern Collin County, TX, and southern Denton County, TX with no additional travel charge.
Call Al’s today to discuss any concerns or problems you have with your HVAC System or Plumbing. We’ll arrange an appointment at your convenience.