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75+ Ways To Lower Your Cooling Bill (& heating bill)

Without Replacing Your HVAC System — Part-3

(Most Of These Ways Also Lower Heating Bills)

What’s Discussed In Part-3:

A. Ductwork Sealing Products — Durability Test Results

B. Entire Home Air-Leakage — By Decade Built

This Is Part 2 — Click Here To Read Part 1:  AlsPlumbing.com Lower Cooling Bills 75+ Ways – Part 1.

Lower Your Cooling Bill — 75+ Ways: Part-2.

This is Part-2 Of Our Article About How To Lower Your Cooling Bill Without Replacing Your HVAC System. 

TIP: Most Of These Efforts Also Lower Heating Bills.

Al’s Plumbing, in Plano, Texas Provides Full-Service Plumbing; Maintenance, Repairs, and Replacements For Every Plumbing Component In Your Home. We sell and install gas and electric water heaters.  Al’s is near your home in; Murphy, TX; Rowlette, TX; and Wylie, Texas.  We service all homes in southern Collin County, TX, and northeastern Dallas County, TX with no additional travel charges.

Call Al’s Today To Discuss Any Concerns Or Problems You Have With Your Home’s Plumbing. 

We will arrange an appointment at your convenience.

The 2 Things That Lower Your Cooling Bill (& heating bill) The Most Are:

1. Sealing Leaking Ductwork

2. Sealing House Air Leaks

Berkley Labs’ 2003 Report: Ductwork-Sealing Products Durability

Lower Your Cooling Bill The Most With The Best Ductwork Sealing Products — Details Below.

Please Note: Al’s Plumbing Does Not Provide Aeroseal Ductwork Sealing.  We Are Not Compensated By Aeroseal For This Article.

In 2003 Lawrence Berkeley Labs (see source below) published an article detailing how long various Ductwork Sealing Products lasted under test conditions (the test conditions were designed to accelerate the normal aging process).  The article discussed the most common products in use at that time.  In the end, a few products earned a “Good” Rating — and only 2 received an “Excellent” Rating (details below).

Only 2 Ductwork Sealing Products Earned an “Excellent” Rating

TIP: Choosing Ductwork Sealing Products with an Excellent rating — will lower your cooling bill (& heating) for the longest period of time.

Aeroseal (brand) is blown into existing ductwork.  Aerosol works from inside the ductwork.  The product begins to flow out of the ductwork only at air leaks.  In a short time the product builds up (at the leaks) until they become sealed.   The product does not stick to the inside of ductwork — it only sticks where it’s flowing out of the ductwork through leaks.

TIP: There are also other brands of airborne ductwork sealing products.

Mastic (assorted brands).  Mastic is the sealer of choice for new ductwork as it’s being installed.  Mastic is applied to the exterior of the ductwork — at all seams & connections.  Mastic can be applied to existing ductwork — but the ductwork must be cleaned before Mastic application.   Mastic is quite sticky, and never fully hardens.  The non-hardening property ensures years of leak-free performance.

Report Source: https://buildings.lbl.gov/publications/advanced-duct-sealant-testing

Berkley Labs Tested These Sealing Products 

Note: Examples Of Ductwork Sealing Products Are Shown.  They are not necessarily the brands Berkley Labs tested.

• Typical Tape-Described As “Duct-Tape”: Rubber-based adhesive with a vinyl or polyethylene backing.
• FAILED WITHIN DAYS.

Image Source: Amazon.com

Shown: What’s Often Referred To As: “Duct Tape”.  Note: This brand labels it: “Duck Tape.”

Click On Image To: View Product, Read Details, or Purchase From Amazon.com

Underwriter Labs (UL)-RATED Duct Tape

• UL-181A: For Use With Metal Ductwork.
• UL-181B: For Use With Flexible Ductwork.

• UL181B Cloth Tape:  Looks similar to standard duct tape.
• The Cloth Version — FAILED WITHIN 2 MONTHS.

• CLEAR UL181B Tape: Has a clear polyester surface with an acrylic adhesive (it looks like packing tape).
• It has the UL Rating as a ductwork sealant.
• One brand of UL 181B film tape stated: “performs at -10°F TO +210°F“.
• This is within the range required for ductwork.  A gas furnace’s output temp = 170F.

• Berkley Lab’s Testing (details below) Rated UL181B Clear Polyester Duct Tape: “GOOD” for longevity.
• “Good” means it did not show substantial failure during the 2-month testing period.

Shown: Butyl Foil Tape

Packaging Says: “Heat Resistant”.

Click On Image To: View Product, Read Details, or Purchase From Amazon.com

• Butyl Tape: Has a Butyl (synthetic) adhesive + metal backing.
• The Testing (details below) Butyl Tape Rated As: “GOOD” for longevity.
• “Good” means it did not show substantial failure during the 2-month testing period.

A Version Of “UL-181” Rated Duct Tape — With A Foil Backing.

• 3M’s UL Rated Foil tape was not tested by Berkley Labs in their 2003 Report.
• 3M (brand) offers a Foil Surface, with an acrylic adhesive.
• It’s rated “UL 181 A–P”.  This means it can be used on both metal & flexible ductwork.
• 3M states: “a service temperature ranging from -40°F TO +300°F. 
• This is well within the range required for ductwork.  A gas furnace’s output temp = 170F.

Source: https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40067911/

 Image Source: Amazon.com

Shown: 3M UL 181 A-P Rated FOIL Tape.  Described as: “Patching Hot & Cold Air Ducts”.

Label Says: “Fiberglass (flexible) & Metal Ducts”.

Click On Image To: View Product, Read Details, or Purchase From Amazon.com

TIP:

• 3M also offers a less expensive tape: “Venture” (model) — UL181B-FX (for flexible ductwork).
• This tape has a Polypropylene Surface (instead of foil).
• 3M states: “a service temperature ranging from -40°F TO +185°F.
• This is within the range required for ductwork.  A gas furnace’s output temp = 170F.

Berkley Labs Rated These Two Ductwork Sealant Products: “Excellent” To Lower Your Cooling Bill.

• Mastic: A wet adhesive (usually applied with a brush) that fills gaps.  It dries to a semi-rigid state (remains a little flexible).

• Aerosol Airborne Sealant:
• It works from inside the ductwork.
• Aerosolized sealant is blown into the ductwork.
• The sealant exits ductwork at leaks.
• The sealant particles build-up (at the leaks) — until the leaks become sealed.

Berkley Labs’ Testing Process:

The testing process was designed to Create More Stress than normal operating conditions — to accelerate the aging/failure process.

• Testing Used An Air Pressure Between 40–80 mph.
• A Furnace Blower creates around 11.25 mph.

And/Or

• Heated to 140–200f degrees.
• A Gas Furnace outputs air at 170F degrees.

A Recap: Ductwork Sealants Tested — Durability Results

Berkley Labs Rated These 3 Ductwork Sealing Products: “Unacceptable” For Longevity:

Common Duct-Tape:   

• Failed within 3 days. 

Underwriter Labs (UL) 181B-FX Cloth Tape:  Looks similar to duct tape.

• Failed within 10-60 days. 

3 Ductwork Sealants Are Rated “GOOD” For Longevity:

• These 3 Did Not Fail within the 2-month testing period — and were rated: “Good”.

• Butyl Tape
• Foil Tape
• Clear UL181B Tape

These 2 Ductwork Sealants Are Rated: “EXCELLENT” For Longevity — And Will Lower Your Cooling Bill

Image Source: Amazon.com

Shown: 1 Gallon Size Mastic – Red Devil Brand.

Click On Image To; View Product, Read Details, or Purchase from Amazon.com

Mastic — For New Ductwork That’s Being Installed.

• Mastic showed NO visible or measurable signs of degradation during the 2-month testing period. 

Aeroseal  — For Existing Ductwork

• Blown inside ductwork) showed NO visible or measurable signs of degradation during the 2-month testing period. 
• TIP: There are other brands of aerosolized ductwork sealants.

Source: http://can-best.com/index_files/Wind%20Speed%20Pressure%20Conversion.pdf

Source: https://www.aceee.org/files/proceedings/2000/data/papers/SS00_Panel1_Paper23.pdf

This YouTube Video Demonstrates How Aeroseal Is Blown Into Existing Ductwork.  It Also Discusses Results.

Aerosol Ductwork Sealing (assorted brands available) — Lower Your Cooling Bill (and heating) — And Take Only About 2 Hours To Install.

Image Source: YouTube Embedded Video Link

Click On The White Arrow To View The Video.

B. Home Air Leakage — Shown By The Decade The Home Was Built

(NOTE: This Section Is Not About Ductwork Leakage.)

TIP: Identify House Air Leaks (with a Blower Door test – details below).

TIP: In A Pre-2009 DFW Home — Lower Your Cooling Bill (and heating) — By Reducing Air Leakage Throughout The House

Can Lower Your Cooling Bill (& heating bill) — By Up To 1/2 (perhaps more).

Image Source: Shutterstock

 Typical 1960s–1970s Built Homes Leak Nearly Double The Air Needed For Acceptable Ventilation.

How & Where Warm Air Leaks Out Of / Into A Home — Based On The Season

• Thermodynamics is the word used to describe how Heat Moves Toward Cold—Year-Round — until everything’s the same temperature.

• During Winter: heat exits the home through leaks; near or within the ceilings (such as at light fixtures), and at the tops of windows & exterior doors.
• During Winter: cool air enters the home through leaks where; floors meet walls, electrical outlets & light switches, and at the bottoms of windows & doors.
• During Winter: heat Radiates Outward from; ceilings, exterior walls, floors, doors & windows.

• In Summer: — these 3 conditions reverse.

• During Summer: Heat enters the home through leaks; near or within the ceilings (such as light fixtures), and at the tops of windows & exterior doors.
• During Summer: Cool air exits the home — through leaks where; floors meet walls, electrical outlets & light switches, and at the bottoms of windows & doors.
• During Summer: Heat Radiates Inward from; ceilings, exterior walls, floors, doors & windows.

Image Source: Shutterstock

When & Why The U.S. Homes Began Incorporating

Energy-Saving Building-Materials & Construction-Standards (details below) To Lower Your Cooling Bill. 

Home Energy-Saving Efforts Began In The Mid-1970s — As A Result Of These World Events:

• In 1973: The Oil Producing & Exporting Countries (OPEC) — placed a (politically inspired) oil embargo on the U.S.
• OPEC decreased oil production to increase oil prices, and maintain OPEC’s profits.
• U.S. Crude Oil (not imported) prices rose nearly 400% (than before the embargo) — from $2.90 to $11.75 per barrel.

• In 1979: The 2nd Oil Crisis occurred.  It was caused by a drop in oil production due to the Iranian Revolution.
• Over the next 12 months — crude oil prices rose nearly 100% (from around $20 to nearly $40 per barrel).
• 43 Years Later- At the end of 2022 — crude oil prices were around $68.

How Much Can Weatherization Lower Your Cooling Bill (& heating)?

These Individual States & Federal Government Agencys’ Numbers Speak For Themselves

NOTE: Higher Air-Exchange Rates Occur In Ares With Colder Winter Temperatures Common.

Note: Weatherization = Add Insulation (where possible) & Seal Air Leaks

• The average weatherized home lowered energy costs from -19% to -42%.

Source: (Vermont) https://www.healthvermont.gov/sites/default/files/documents/pdf/ENV_CH_WxHealthReport.pdf

• Participating homeowners in a Home Energy Savings Program (HESP) lower their heating bills by up to -41%.

Source: (Maine) https://www.efficiencymaine.com/energy-efficiency-best-way-to-save-on-heating-expenses/

• A weatherized home reduces energy by an average of -35%.

Source: (Missouri) https://www.spireenergy.com/weatherization

• Participating households average nearly -35% lower home energy costs. 

Source: (Utah) https://jobs.utah.gov/housing/scso/wap/index.html

• Weatherization reduced home energy costs by -20 to -30%

Source: (Ohio) https://hapcap.org/housing/weatherization/

• Low-Income Home Energy Assistance Program reduced home energy costs by -23%.

Source: (Vermont) https://auditor.vermont.gov/sites/auditor/files/documents/Keeping%20Warm%20Report%20-%202002.pdf

• On a typical low-income home — weatherization lowers home energy costs by -35%.

Source: (Nationwide)  US Department Of Energy (DOE)-A Federal Government Agency.   https://www.nrel.gov/docs/fy11osti/51242.pdf

A Blower Door Test — Will Identify Air Leaks’ Locations & Sizes Throughout The House

TIP: To Lower Your Cooling Bills (& heating bills) the fastest.

  Seal Leaks — Working From Largest To Smallest Size.

Image Source: Shutterstock

Shown: A “Blower Door”.  This is temporarily installed to create a vacuum inside the home.

The vacuum dramatically increases air leaks. This allows the tester to compute the home’s Natural Air-Leakage-Rate.

This YouTube Video Demonstrates A Blower-Door Test

A Blower-Door Test Simulates A 20 MPH Wind — Blowing On All 4 Sides Of The Home At Once.

Image Source: YouTube Embedded Video Link.

Click On The White Arrow To View The Video.

How MUCH Air Do Homes Leak? 

Here Are Results By Decade Built

Where Homes Leak The Most Air:

• 31% Ceilings, Walls, & Floors

• 15% Ductwork

• 15% Where Pipes Come Walls. 

TIP: In older homes, it’s common for the hole around pipes to be much larger than the pipe.  Close the holes in both exterior & interior walls.  Holes, like the one shown just below, may have been created when the home was built -OR- when pipes repairs were performed.

TIP: Plumbers don’t fix drywall holes — they fix only the pipes.

TIP: Typically, holes repairs suggest drywall repairs. 

• With Drywall Repairs: Save a lot of time by sealing seams with caulk — instead of drywall tape & mudding.

• You can save even more time with Foam-Core Poster-Board.
• Use a large enough piece of poster-board to cover the entire hole.  There’s no need to cut the poster-board to fit the hole.
• Use caulk around all 4 sides of the poster-board.  Stick it into place and tape the corners for a few days while the caulk dries.
• When removing the tape, then caulk around the pipes for an airtight seal.

Image Source: Amazon.com Link

Shown: 11×14″ Foam-Core Poster-Board (20 pieces)

Click On Image To; View Product, Read Details, or Purchase From Amazon.com

This YouTube Video Details How To Close The Holes Around Plumbing Coming Through Walls

Image Source: YouTube Embedded Video Link

Shown: A Very large hole in the drywall where plumbing pipes come through the wall.

TIP: There Are Additional Air Leakage Numbers Below The Fireplace Covers Section Just Below.

• 14% Fireplace
• Wood Burning: Damper left open and/or doesn’t fit tight when closed/
• Gas: No Damper Is Present (due to carbon-monoxide danger if the damper is closed while the gas burner is lighted).

Interior Fireplace Cover

SHOWN: Removable Magnetic Cover For The Interior Side Of A (metal firebox) Fireplace.

Image Source: Amazon.com

Click On Image To: View Product, Read Details, or Purchase From Amazon.com

A (removable) Magnetic Fireplace Cover can be particularly energy-saving in northern climates.

TIP: If You Seldom Or Never Use Your Woodburning-Fireplace. Behind the Cover Shown Above — Fill the firebox with fiberglass batt insulation (inside a large trash bag).

That way the insulation is easily removed when you choose to use the fireplace.

If You Have A Full-Masonry Fireplace — This (not magnetic) Fireplace Cover — Attaches With Velcro.

SHOWN: Removable Velcro Cover For The Interior Side Of A (masonry firebox) Fireplace.

Image Source: Amazon.com

Click On Image To: View Product, Read Details, or Purchase From Amazon.com

Gas Fireplace Damper Balloon

Gas Fireplace Ballon: Fits Tight To The Open Exhaust Flue.  If balloon is accidentally left in place with the fireplace lighted — balloon will melt, so no CO2 risk.

Image Source: Amazon.com

Click On Image To: View Product, Read Details, or Purchase From Amazon.com

Woodburning Fireplace Damper Balloon

Wood-Burning Fireplace Ballon: Fits Tight To The Closed Damper.  If the balloon is left in place with the fireplace lighted — balloon will melt, so no CO2 risk.

Image Source: Amazon.com

Click On Image To: View Product, Read Details, or Purchase From Amazon.com

Where Homes Leak The Most Air — Continued

11% Exterior Doors (worn or missing weatherstripping).

10% Windows

• This is how much air home’s windows are often leaking.

4%  Furnace vents not sealed to the ceiling or floor.  &  Unsealed around bath fans.

2%  At electrical outlets and light switches.

10% Windows.

Source: Environmental Protection Agency (EPA)

To Skip This Section About Windows Energy-Efficiency Performance — Scroll Down To The Next Double Lines

TIP: The Larger Windows Energy-Efficiency Concern — Is How Much Heat Passes Through The Windows’ Frame & Glass.

This YouTube Video Shows Typical Pre-2008 DFW Homes Windows

With Uninsulated Aluminum Frame & Single-Pane Glass (U=1.25).

Image Source: YouTube Embedded Video Link

Shown: Typical Pre-2008 DFW Home Windows — Uninsulated Aluminum Frame & Single-Pane Glass. 

• The U-Factor indicates how well a window insulates.  U-Fanctor Performance includes both the frame and the glass panes.
• The lower the U-Factor — the better the window insulates.
• The U-Factor of typical pre-2008 Texas home windows (uninsulated aluminum frame & single-pane glass) U=1.25

• In 2006, the International Residential Code (IRC) required windows in Climate Zone 3 (includes DFW) U-Factor = 0.65
• Effective 1/1/2008: Texas adopted the 2006 IRC.
• Starting 1/1/08 — Newly-Built Texas Homes Windows Were Nearly Twice As Energy-Efficient — as the windows allowed through 2007 (U-Factor = 1.25).

NOTE: Some local/municipality Building Codes adopted the 2006 IRC — before the State of Texas’ did (1/1/08).

Sources:

• U-Factor Source: https://aerosealcorp.com/understanding-u-values
• 2006 TX Adoption Source: https://www.austintexas.gov/sites/default/files/files/Development_Services/INSP_HistoricCodeAdoptionDates.pdf

TODAY

• The 2021 IRC Requires Climate-Zone 3 windows’ U-Factor = 0.32
• As of Sept. 21, 2021 — Newly-Built Texas Homes’ Windows Are Nearly 4 Times More Energy-Efficient — as windows allowed through 2007 (U-Factor = 1.25).

Sources:

• https://codes.iccsafe.org/content/IRC2021P1/chapter-11-re-energy-efficiency
• 2006 TX Adoption Source: https://www.austintexas.gov/sites/default/files/files/Development_Services/INSP_HistoricCodeAdoptionDates.pdf

End Of Section About Windows Energy Efficiency

ACHn = Air Change per Hour (ACH). 

ACH .35 = Slightly Over 1/3 — Of Indoor-Air Must Be Exchanged With Outoor-Air — Each Hour To Ensure Safe Indoor Air Quality.

Source: US Dept. Of Energy — Office of Scientific and Technical Information (OSTI)  https://www.osti.gov/servlets/purl/816784  Report Published In July 2003.

Image Source: Shutterstock

Before 1940: ACH=1.4 (just under 1-1/2 air exchanges per hour).   That’s 4 Times as much air-exchange as needed (.35). Many homes leak even more.

Image Source: Shutterstock

1941–1959: ACH= 1.25 (1-1/4 air exchanges per hour). That’s 3-1/2 times the air-exchange as needed (.35).

   1960–1969: ACH=.60  That’s Nearly double the air-exchange as needed (.35).

& 1970–1979: ACH=.60 That’s Nearly double the air-exchange as needed (.35).

Image Source: Pixabay.com 

1980–1989:  .475  That’s +1/4 more exchange as needed (.35).

1990–1999:  .375  This is slightly more the air exchange as needed (.35).

TIP: With homes built 1990-1999: No further weatherization is needed.  Seal any obvious leaks (like under exterior doors).

Image Source: Pixabay.com 

2000-2011: .15ACH Homes Were Built Too Airtight To Ensure Safe Indoor Air Quality (.35ACH).

For Homes Built 2000-2011: 

• Have A Blower-Door Test Performed.  
• If the result is slightly less than .35 ACH — Running A Bath Fan 24/7 Should Help. 
• If the result is notably less than .35 ACH — A Mechanical Ventilator & Fresh-Air Duct Need To Be Added.  These Are Discussed Just Below.

(Some Pre-2002 homes were built with Mechanical Ventilation).

Source: US Dept. Of Energy — Office of Scientific and Technical Information (OSTI)  https://www.osti.gov/servlets/purl/816784  Report Published In July 2003.

Image Source: Pixabay.com

SHOWN: Newly-Built Home

In 2012: Whole-House Mechanical Ventilation

 Became Required By The International Residential Code (IRC) — IRC Is A Building Code.

Mechanical Ventilation ensures .35 (just over 1/3) Air Changes per Hour (ACH) for the entire home.

Around 2000, Building Codes required new homes to be built so airtight — that they didn’t leak enough outdoor air into the home to ensure Acceptable Indoor Air Quality. 

Many occupants in these homes showed physical symptoms related to unhealthy indoor air.   This problem was given the name: “Sick Building Syndrome”.   To end these problems, in 2012 — The International Residential Code (IRC) began requiring Whole-House Mechanical Ventilation to ensure adequate air exchange. 

Source: https://www.bobvila.com/slideshow/sick-house-syndrome-11-ways-your-home-may-be-making-you-ill-48584

TIP: Individual States’ Building Codes, requiring whole-house mechanical ventilation, may have begun later than 2012.

For Example — In Texas:

• Building codes in Texas follow the Uniform Mechanical Code (UMC).

• The 2018 UMC states: When the Blower Door Test Result is less than 5ACH — Mechanical Ventilation is required.
• So Texas required Whole-House Mechanical Ventilation beginning in 2018.

• A Blower Door Test replicates a 20-mph wind blowing on ALL sides of a structure – at the same time.
• To determine the Natural Ventilation Rate Divide the Blower Door Test Result By 20.
• Blower Door ACH=5 / 20 =.25 ACH(natural).  .35 ACHn is required for acceptable Indoor Air Quality.

Source: https://www.finehomebuilding.com/project-guides/insulation/using-a-blower-door-test-and-interpreting-the-results

So Why No Just Let The House Naturally Leak .35 ACH?

At first glance, it may seem overkill to seal a home so airtight that equipment is required to ensure the home gets enough fresh outdoor air.

The 2 Goals Of Very Airtight Homes + Mechanical-Ventilation:

• Ensure Consistent Air-Exchanges = .35 ACH (1/3 of indoor air is exchanged with outdoor air each hour).
• If too little air exchange occurs — Indoor Air Quality becomes unhealthy.
• If too much air exchange occurs — it wastes energy and costs more to cool & heat the home.
• TIP: Whenever the window is blowing — homes leak more air.

-AND-

• Ensure The Fresh Outdoor Air Enters The Home Through A (filtered) Path designed & installed for that purpose.

As Compared To:

• Too little / too much air leaking into the home.
• Unfiltered air leaking into the home.
• Air leaking into the home through Attic or Wall Insulation that’s filled with Dust, Pollen, & other Airborne Pollutants (and possibly rodent droppings).

Common Types Of Mechanical-Ventilation Equipment Found In New Homes

Whole-House Ventilation Exhaust-Fans Are Often Installed By New Home Builders.  They Are The Least Expensive Way To Ensure Indoor Air Quality.

Whole-House Ventilation Exhaust-Fans Run 24/7.  There Is No Switch To Turn Them Off.

They Look Like A Bathroom Fan And Are Typically Installed In The Owner’s Suite Bathroom (or the only Full Bathroom in the home)

WHY? Because That Bathroom Has The Highest Humidity WithIn The House.

Within This Article — We Go Into Detail About The 3 Most Common Types Of

Mechanical-Ventilation Systems Found In Newly-Built Homes

A. Whole-House Exhaust-Fan (typically located in the owner’s bathroom) + Air-Intake Vent(s) — that are connected To HVAC Ductwork.

Out-Door Air Takes This Path through the Air-Intake Vent(s) Into The Home’s Living Spaces

• Outdoor Air enters the home through an Air-Intake Vent(s) typically located on outside walls.

• The fresh air is filtered and then becomes mixed with indoor air that’s returning to the furnace.

• All the air it’s heated or cooled (with central a/c) while inside the furnace.

• Then the fresh air is mixed & dispersed evenly throughout the home through the HVAC System’s ductwork.

This YouTube Video Discusses Air Intake Vents

TIP: Air-Intake Vents Have A Screen.  Air-Exhaust Vents Typically Have A Flap (that opens when the exhaust fan is running)

Image Source: YouTube Embedded Video Link.

Click On White Arrow To View The Video.

TIP: All Of The Mechanical-Ventilation Systems Shown Below Create The .35 ACH Required By Building Codes.

Whole-House Exhaust-Fan Lower Your Cooling Bill The Least 

This Fan Recovers 0% Of The Heat or Cool From Indoor-Air That’s Being Exhausted.

Image Source: Amazon.com

Shown: Whole-House Ventilation System (exhaust fan)

SHOWN: Broan-NuTone (brand) AE110LK (model) 110 CFM Whole-House Exhaust-Fan – With LED Light

Click On Image To; View Product, Read Details, or Purchase from Amazon.com

This System Is Installed In A Bathroom Ceiling.

110 Cubic Feet Per Minute (CFM) = 6,600 Cubic Feet Of Indoor Air Exhausted Per Hour.

Examples:

.35 Air Change per Hour (ACH) is required.

• 2,000 Square Foot (SF) home with 8′ ceilings = 16,000 Cubic Feet Of Air.
• The fan (just above) exhausts 110 Cubic Feet Per Minute -OR- 6,600 Cubic Feet per Hour.
• 6,600/ 16,000 = .41 ACH.  This is slightly more than what’s needed.
• With a slightly higher air change rate — this fan might be ideal for a 1,900 – 2,000 square foot home with 8′ ceilings — where there are Smokers or Lots Of Cooking.

TIP: Amazon Also Carries:

Broan AE80LK.  80 CFM – With LED Light  

This Fan Recovers 0% Of The Heat or Cool From Indoor-Air That’s Being Exhausted.

Click On Image To; View Product, Read Details, or Purchase from Amazon.com

This Fan Recovers 0% Of The Heat or Cool From Indoor-Air That’s Being Exhausted.

Broan 678.  50 CFM – With Standard Light Bulb Socket. 

This Fan Recovers 0% Of The Heat or Cool From Indoor-Air That’s Being Exhausted.

Click On Image To; View Product, Read Details, or Purchase from Amazon.com

Outdoor-Air Intake(s) — For Homes With A Whole-House Exhaust-Fan

• The Air-Intake is typically connected to Return Air Ductwork (air going to the furnace).
• When the furnace runs, it mixes fresh outdoor air — with indoor air that’s returning to the furnace.
• Then the furnace disperses all air (coming from the furnace) throughout the house.

A Basic Whole-House Exhaust-Fan System Has A Manual Damper.

• The damper is pre-set to ensure .35 ACH — while the furnace is running.

• This allows the correct amount of outdoor air to enter the ductwork — while the furnace is running.
• The damper remains open all the time.

• This also allows outdoor air to enter the home — when the furnace is not running.
• This allows for more fresh air exchange — than is needed (.35 ACH).

Image Source: Amazon.com

Shown: Manual Damper

Click On The Image To; View Product, Read Details, or Purchase From Amazon.com

B. BETTER Whole-House Exhaust-Fan Systems Have A Motorized Damper — To seal off the fresh-air intake vent when the blower motor isn’t running.

TIP: This Better System will lower your cooling bill more than the Basic System (manual damper).

• The damper is pre-set open to ensure .35 ACH.

• The damper is open while the furnace is running.
• When the furnace turns off — the damper automatically closes.

• This ensures that fresh air is entering only when the furnace is running.
• This system is more energy-efficient — because it’s open only when it needs to be.

Image Source: Amazon.com

Shown: Automatic Motorized Damper

Click On The Image To; View The Product, Read Details, or Purchase From Amazon.com

C. BEST Mechanical-VentilationSystems Include A Whole-House Energy-Recovery Ventilation (ERV) System

TIP: The Best System will lower your cooling ill more than the Upgraded (automatic damper) System.

An ERV Will Lower Your Cooling Bill (& heating) The Most.

An ERVSystem Recovers Much Of The Heat or Cool (from the indoor-air that’s being exhausted).

Then, an ERV System Reuses That Heat or Cool — to help warm or cool fresh outdoor-air that’s entering the home.

(With An ERV System — No whole-house exhaust-fan exists in the home).

An ERV System Also Has Air Filters (in addition to the furnace’s air filter).

Image Source: Amazon.com

Click On Image To; View Product, Read Details, or Purchase from Amazon.com

Shown: Whole-House Energy-Recovery Mechanical-Ventilation System (ERV).

In Winter:  This System recovers about 3/4 of the heat from the air that’s being exhausted outdoors.

In Summer:   This System recovers about 3/4 of the cool from the air that’s being exhausted outdoors.

Any Of The Mechanical-Ventilation Systems Shown Above — Create The .35 ACH Required By Building Codes

Lower Your Cooling Bill-2 Ductwork & Air Leaks Sealing

Without Replacing Your HVAC System

(Most Of These Ways Also Lower Heating Bills)

This Is Part 2 — Click Here To Read Part 1:  AlsPlumbing.com Lower Cooling Bills 50+ Ways – Part 1.

This was Part-2 Of Our Multi-Part Article That Details 75+ Ways To Lower Your Cooling Bill — Without Replacing Your HVAC System.   Al’s Plumbing, in Plano, Texas provides full-service plumbing; maintenance, repairs, and replacements for every plumbing component in your home.

We sell and install gas and electric water heaters.  Al’s is near your home in; Plano, TX; Allen, TX; Frisco, TX; and McKinney, Texas.  We service all homes in southern Collin County, TX, and northeastern Dallas County, TX with no additional travel charges.

Call Al’s Today To Discuss Any Concerns Or Problems You Have With Your Home’s Plumbing. 

We will arrange an appointment at your convenience.

This Is Part 2 Of Our Article:  Click Here To Read Part 1: AlsPlumbing.com 75 Ways To Lower Cooling Costs Part 1