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75+ Ways To Lower Your Cooling Bill: Part-2
Without Replacing Your HVAC System
(Most Of These Ways Also Lower Heating Bills)
What’s Discussed In Part-2:
A. Ductwork Sealing Products — Durability Test Results
B. Entire Home’s Air-Leakage — By Decade Built
This Is Part 2 — Click Here To Read Part 1: AlsPlumbing.com Lower Cooling Bills 75+ Ways – Part 1.
Lower Your Cooling Bill — 75+ Ways: Part-2. This is Part-2 Of Our Article About How To Lower Your Cooling Bill Without Replacing Your HVAC System. NOTE: Most of these efforts also Lower Heating Bills.
Al’s Plumbing, in Plano, Texas Provides Full-Service Plumbing; Maintenance, Repairs, and Replacements For Every Plumbing Component In Your Home. We sell and install gas and electric water heaters. Al’s is near your home in; Murphy, TX; Rowlette, TX; and Wylie, Texas. We service all homes in southern Collin County, TX, and northeastern Dallas County, TX with no additional travel charges.
Call Al’s Today To Discuss Any Concerns Or Problems You Have With Your Home’s Plumbing.
We will arrange an appointment at your convenience.
The 2 Things That Lower Your Cooling Bill (& heating bill) The Most
Are 1. Sealing Ductwork & 2. Sealing House Air Leaks
Berkley Labs’ 2003 Report: Ductwork-Sealing Products Durability
Please Note: Al’s Plumbing Does Not Provide Aeroseal Ductwork Sealing. We Are Not Compensated By Aeroseal For This Article.
In 2003 Lawrence Berkeley Labs (see source below) published an article detailing how long various Ductwork Sealing Products lasted under test conditions (the test conditions were designed to accelerate the normal aging process). The article discussed the most common products in use at that time. In the end, a few products earned a “Good” Rating (details below).
Only 2 Ductwork Sealing Products Earned an “Excellent” Rating
TIP: Choosing Ductwork Sealing Products with an Excellent rating — will lower your cooling bill (& heating) for the longest period of time.
Aeroseal (brand) is blown into already installed ductwork. Aerosol works from inside the ductwork. The product begins to flow out of the ductwork only at air leaks. In a short time the product builds up (at the leaks) until they become sealed. The product does not stick to the inside of ductwork — it only sticks where it’s flowing out of the ductwork through leaks.
TIP: There are also other brands of airborne ductwork sealing products.
Mastic (assorted brands). Mastic is the sealer of choice for new ductwork while being installed. It’s applied to the exterior of the ductwork — at all seams & connections. Mastic can be applied to existing ductwork — but the ductwork must be cleaned before Mastic application. Mastic is quite sticky, and never fully hardens. The non-hardening property ensures years of leak-free performance.
Report Source: https://buildings.lbl.gov/publications/advanced-duct-sealant-testing
Berkley Labs Tested These Sealing Products
Note: Examples Of Ductwork Sealing Products Are Shown. They are not necessarily the brands Berkley Labs tested.
- Typical Tape-Described As “Duct-Tape”: Rubber-based adhesive with a vinyl or polyethylene backing.
- FAILED WITHIN DAYS.
Image Source: Amazon.com
Shown: What’s Often Referred To As: “Duct Tape”. Note: This brand labels it: “Duck Tape.”
Click On Image To: View Product, Read Details, or Purchase From Amazon.com
Underwriter Labs (UL)-RATED Duct Tape
- UL-181A: For Use With Metal Ductwork.
- UL-181B: For Use With Flexible Ductwork.
- UL181B Cloth Tape: Looks similar to standard duct tape.
- The Cloth Version — FAILED WITHIN 2 MONTHS.
- CLEAR UL181B Tape: Has a clear polyester surface with an acrylic adhesive (it looks like packing tape).
- It has the UL Rating as a ductwork sealant.
- One brand of UL 181B film tape stated: “performs at -10°F TO +210°F“.
- This is within the range required for ductwork. A gas furnace’s output temp = 170F.
- Berkley Lab’s Testing (details below) Rated UL181B Clear Polyester Duct Tape: “Good” for longevity.
- “Good” means it did not show substantial failure during the 2-month testing period.
Shown: Butyl Foil Tape
Packaging Says: “Heat Resistant”.
Click On Image To: View Product, Read Details, or Purchase From Amazon.com
- Butyl Tape: Has a Butyl (synthetic) adhesive + metal backing.
- The Testing (details below) Butyl Tape Rated As: “Good” for longevity.
- “Good” means it did not show substantial failure during the 2-month testing period.
A Version Of “UL-181” Rated Duct Tape — With A Foil Backing.
- UL Rated Foil tape was not tested by Berkley Labs in their 2003 Report.
- 3M (brand) offers a Foil Surface, with an acrylic adhesive. It’s rated “UL 181 A–P”. This means it can be used on both metal & flexible ductwork.
- 3M states: “a service temperature ranging from -40°F TO +300°F.
- This is well within the range required for ductwork. A gas furnace’s output temp = 170F.
Source: https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40067911/
Image Source: Amazon.com
Shown: 3M UL 181 A-P RatedFOIL Tape. Described as: “Patching Hot & Cold Air Ducts”.
Label Says: “Fiberglass (flexible) & Metal Ducts”.
Click On Image To: View Product, Read Details, or Purchase From Amazon.com
TIP:
- 3M also offers a less expensive tape: “Venture” (model) — UL181B-FX (for flexible ductwork).
- This tape has a Polypropylene Surface (instead of foil).
- 3M states: “a service temperature ranging from -40°F TO +185°F.
- This is within the range required for ductwork. A gas furnace’s output temp = 170F.
Berkley Labs Rated These Two Ductwork Sealant Products: “Excellent” To Lower Your Cooling Bill.
- Mastic: A wet adhesive (usually applied with a brush) that fills gaps. It dries to a semi-rigid state (remains a little flexible).
- Aerosol Airborne Sealant:
- It works from inside the ductwork.
- Aerosolized sealant is blown into the ductwork.
- The sealant exits ductwork at leaks.
- The sealant particles build-up (at the leaks) — until the leaks become sealed.
Berkley Labs’ Testing Process:
The testing process was designed to Create More Stress than normal operating conditions — to accelerate the aging/failure process.
- Testing Used An Air Pressure Between 40–80 mph.
- A Furnace Blower creates around 11.25 mph.
And/Or
- Heated to 140–200f degrees.
- A Gas Furnace outputs air at 170F degrees.
A Recap: Ductwork Sealants Tested — Durability Results
Berkley Labs Rated These 3 Ductwork Sealing Products: “Unacceptable” For Longevity:
Common Duct-Tape:
- Failed within 3 days.
UL181B-FX Cloth Tape: Looks similar to duct tape.
- Failed within 10-60 days.
3 Ductwork Sealants Are Rated “GOOD” For Longevity:
- These 3 Did Not Fail within the 2-month testing period — and were rated: “Good”.
- Butyl Tape
- Foil Tape
- Clear UL181B Tape
These 2 Ductwork Sealants Are Rated: “EXCELLENT” For Longevity.
Shown: 1 Gallon Size Mastic – Red Devil Brand.
Click On Image To; View Product, Read Details, or Purchase from Amazon.com
Mastic:
- Mastic showed NO visible or measurable signs of degradation during the 2-month testing period.
Aerosol:
- Aeroseal (blown inside ductwork) showed NO visible or measurable signs of degradation during the 2-month testing period.
- TIP: There are other brands of aerosolized ductwork sealants.
Source: http://can-best.com/index_files/Wind%20Speed%20Pressure%20Conversion.pdf
Source: https://www.aceee.org/files/proceedings/2000/data/papers/SS00_Panel1_Paper23.pdf
This YouTube Video Demonstrates How Aeroseal Is Blown Into Existing Ductwork. It Also Discusses Results.
Image Source: YouTube Embedded Video Link
Click On The White Arrow To View The Video.
B. Home Air Leakage — Shown By The Decade The Home Was Built
(NOTE: This Section Is Not About Ductwork Leakage.)
TIP: Identifying House Air Leaks (with a blower door test) & Sealing The Leaks — Will Lower Your Cooling Bill (& heating) by 1/2 or more.
TIP: In A Pre-2009 DFW Home — Reducing Air Leakage Throughout The House
Can Lower Your Cooling Bill (& heating bill) — By Up To 1/2 (perhaps more).
Image Source: Shutterstock
Typical 1960s–1970s Built Homes Leak Nearly Double The Air Needed For Acceptable Ventilation.
Lower Your Cooling Bill By Understanding: How & Where Warm Air Leaks Out Of / Into A Home — Based On The Season
- Thermodynamics is the word used to describe how Heat Moves Toward Cold—Year-Round — until everything’s the same temperature.
- During Winter: heat exits the home through leaks; near or within the ceilings (such as at light fixtures), and at the tops of windows & exterior doors.
- During Winter: cool air enters the home through leaks where; floors meet walls, electrical outlets & light switches, and at the bottoms of windows & doors.
- During Winter: heat Radiates Outward from; ceilings, exterior walls, floors, doors & windows.
- In Summer: — these 3 conditions reverse.
- During Summer: Heat enters the home through leaks; near or within the ceilings (such as light fixtures), and at the tops of windows & exterior doors.
- During Summer: Cool air exits the home — through leaks where; floors meet walls, electrical outlets & light switches, and at the bottoms of windows & doors.
- During Summer: Heat Radiates Inward from; ceilings, exterior walls, floors, doors & windows.
Image Source: Shutterstock
When & Why The U.S. Homes Began Incorporating
Energy-Saving Building-Materials & Construction-Standards (details below) To Lower Your Cooling Bill.
Home Energy-Saving Efforts Began In The Mid-1970s — As A Result Of These World Events:
- In 1973: The Oil Producing & Exporting Countries (OPEC) — placed a (politically inspired) oil embargo on the U.S.
- OPEC decreased oil production to increase oil prices, and maintain OPEC’s profits.
- U.S. Crude Oil (not imported) prices rose nearly 400% (than before the embargo) — from $2.90 to $11.75 per barrel.
- In 1979: The 2nd Oil Crisis occurred. It was caused by a drop in oil production due to the Iranian Revolution.
- Over the next 12 months — crude oil prices rose nearly 100% (from around $20 to nearly $40 per barrel).
- 43 Years Later- At the end of 2022 — crude oil prices were around $68.
How Much Can Weatherization Lower Your Cooling Bill (& heating)?
The Individual States & Federal Government Agencys’ Numbers Speak For Themselves
NOTE: Higher Air-Exchange Rates Occur In Ares With Colder Winter Temperatures Common.
Note: Weatherization = Add Insulation (where possible) & Seal Air Leaks
- The average weatherized home lowered energy costs from -19% to -42%.
Source: (Vermont) https://www.healthvermont.gov/sites/default/files/documents/pdf/ENV_CH_WxHealthReport.pdf
- Participating homeowners in a Home Energy Savings Program (HESP) lower their heating bills by up to -41%.
Source: (Maine) https://www.efficiencymaine.com/energy-efficiency-best-way-to-save-on-heating-expenses/
- A weatherized home reduces energy by an average of -35%.
Source: (Missouri) https://www.spireenergy.com/weatherization
- Participating households average nearly -35% lower home energy costs.
Source: (Utah) https://jobs.utah.gov/housing/scso/wap/index.html
- Weatherization reduced home energy costs by -20 to -30%
Source: (Ohio) https://hapcap.org/housing/weatherization/
- Low-Income Home Energy Assistance Program reduced home energy costs by -23%.
Source: (Vermont) https://auditor.vermont.gov/sites/auditor/files/documents/Keeping%20Warm%20Report%20-%202002.pdf
- On a typical low-income home — weatherization lowers home energy costs by -35%.
Source: (Nationwide) US Department Of Energy (DOE)-A Federal Government Agency. https://www.nrel.gov/docs/fy11osti/51242.pdf
A Blower Door Test — Will Identify Air Leaks’ Locations & Sizes Throughout The House
Seal Them, Working From Largest To Smallest Size, To Lower Your Cooling Bill (& heating) The Fastest.
Image Source: Shutterstock
Shown: A “Blower Door”. This is temporarily installed to create a vacuum inside the home.
The vacuum dramatically increases air leaks. This allows the tester to compute the home’s Natural Air-Leakage-Rate.
This YouTube Video Demonstrates A Blower-Door Test
A Blower-Door Test Simulates A 20 MPH Wind — Blowing On All 4 Sides Of The Home At Once.
Image Source: YouTube Embedded Video Link.
Click On The White Arrow To View The Video.
How MUCH Air Do Homes Leak?
Here Are Results By Decade Built
TIP: The more air your home leaks — the more you will lower your cooling bill (& heating).
You Can Lower Your Cooling Bill (& Heating) — By Up To 1/2 (& perhaps more)
By Reducing Air Leakage Throughout The House.
Where Homes Leak The Most Air:
31% Ceilings, Walls, & Floors
15% Ductwork
15% Where Pipes Come Walls. In older homes, it’s common for the hole around pipes to be much larger than the pipe. Close the holes in both exterior & interior walls.
14% Fireplace (Wood Burning: Damper left open and/or doesn’t fit tight.) Gas: No Damper present (due to carbon-monoxide danger should the damper be left closed).
TIP: There Are More Air Leakage Numbers Below Fireplace Solutions.
Solutions
Cover For The Interior Side Of The Fireplace.
Image Source: Amazon.com
Click On Image To: View Product, Read Details, or Purchase From Amazon.com
Gas Fireplace Ballon: Fits Tight To The Open Exhaust Flue. If balloon is accidentally left in place with the fireplace lighted — balloon will melt, so no CO2 risk.
Image Source: Amazon.com
Click On Image To: View Product, Read Details, or Purchase From Amazon.com
Wood-Burning Fireplace Ballon: Fits Tight To The Closed Damper. If the balloon left in place with the fireplace lighted — balloon will melt, so no CO2 risk.
Image Source: Amazon.com
Click On Image To: View Product, Read Details, or Purchase From Amazon.com
10% Windows. Note: This is windows’ Air Leakage. Often the bigger concern is — how much heat passes through the glass & frame.
11% Exterior Doors (worn or missing weatherstripping).
4% Furnace vents not sealed to the ceiling or floor. & Unsealed around bath fans.
2% At electrical outlets and light switches.
Source: Environmental Protection Agency (EPA)
ACHn = Air Change per Hour (ACH).
TIP: To Ensure Acceptable Indoor Air Quality: ACH.35
TIP: ACH .35 = Slightly Over 1/3 — Of Indoor-Air Must Be Exchanged With Outoor-Air — Each Hour.
Source: US Dept. Of Energy — Office of Scientific and Technical Information (OSTI) https://www.osti.gov/servlets/purl/816784 Report Published In July 2003.
Image Source: Shutterstock
Before 1940: ACH=1.4 (just under 1-1/2 air exchanges per hour). That’s 4 Times the air exchange needed (.35). Many homes leak even more.
Image Source: Shutterstock
1941–1959: ACH= 1.25 (1-1/4 air exchanges per hour). That’s 3-1/2 times the air exchange that’s needed (.35).
1960–1969: ACH=.60 That’s Nearly double the air exchange that’s needed (.35).
& 1970–1979: ACH=.60 That’s Nearly double the air exchange that’s needed (.35).
Image Source: Pixabay.com
1980–1989: .475 That’s +1/4 more exchange that’s needed (.35).
1990–1999: .375 This is slightly more the air exchange that’s needed (.35).
TIP: With homes built 1990-1999: No further weatherization is needed. Seal any obvious leaks (like under exterior doors).
Image Source: Pixabay.com
2000-2011: .15ACH Homes Were Built Too Airtight To Ensure Acceptable Indoor Air Quality (.35ACH).
For Homes Built 2000-2011: Have A Blower-Door Test Performed. If the result is slightly less than .35 ACH — Running A Bath Fan 24/7 Should Help.
If the result is notably less than .35 ACH — A Mechanical Ventilator & Fresh-Air Duct Need To Be Added. These Are Discussed Just Below.
(Some Pre-2002 homes were built with Mechanical Ventilation).
Source: US Dept. Of Energy — Office of Scientific and Technical Information (OSTI) https://www.osti.gov/servlets/purl/816784 Report Published In July 2003.
In 2012: Whole-House Mechanical Ventilation — Became Required By The International Residential (Building) Code.
Mechanical Ventilation ensures .35 (just over 1/3) Air Changes per Hour (ACH) for the entire home.
Around 2000, Building Codes required new homes to be built so airtight — that they didn’t leak enough outdoor air into the home to ensure Acceptable Indoor Air Quality.
Many occupants in these homes showed physical symptoms related to unhealthy indoor air. This problem was given the name: “Sick Building Syndrome”. To end these problems, in 2012 — The International Residential Code (IRC) began requiring Whole-House Mechanical Ventilation to ensure adequate air exchange.
Source: https://www.bobvila.com/slideshow/sick-house-syndrome-11-ways-your-home-may-be-making-you-ill-48584
TIP: Individual States’ Building Codes, requiring whole-house mechanical ventilation, may have begun later than 2012.
For Example — In Texas:
- Building codes in Texas follow the Uniform Mechanical Code (UMC).
- The 2018 UMC states: When the Blower Door Test Result is less than 5ACH — Mechanical Ventilation is required.
- So Texas required Whole-House Mechanical Ventilation beginning in 2018.
- To determine the Natural Ventilation Rate Divide the Blower Door Test Result By 20.
- Blower Door ACH=5 / 20 =.25 ACH(natural). .35 ACHn is required for acceptable Indoor Air Quality.
So Why No Just Let The House Naturally Leak .35 ACH?
At first glance, it may seem overkill to seal a home so airtight that equipment is required to ensure the home gets enough fresh outdoor air.
The 2 Goals Of Very Airtight Homes + Mechanical-Ventilation:
- Ensure Consistent Air-Exchanges = .35 ACH (1/3 of indoor air is exchanged with outdoor air each hour).
- If too little air exchange occurs — Indoor Air Quality becomes unhealthy.
- If too much air exchange occurs — it wastes energy and costs more to cool & heat the home.
-AND-
- Ensure Fresh Outdoor Air Enters The Home Through A (filtered) Path designed & installed for that purpose.
- As compared to air leaking into the home through attic or wall insulation that’s filled with dust, pollen, and other airborne pollutants.
Common Types Of Mechanical-Ventilation Equipment Found In New Homes
Whole-House Ventilation Exhaust-Fans Are Often Installed By New Home Builders. They Are The Least Expensive Way To Ensure Indoor Air Quality.
Whole-House Ventilation Exhaust-Fans Run 24/7. There Is No Switch To Turn Them Off.
These Look Like A Bathroom Fan. They Are Typically Installed In The Owner’s Suite Bathroom (or the only Full Bathroom in the home)
WHY? Because That Bathroom Has The Highest Humidity WithIn The House.
Within This Article — We Go Into Detail About The 3 Most Common Types Of
Mechanical-Ventilation Systems Found In Newly-Built Homes
A. Whole-House Exhaust-Fan & Air-Intake Vent(s) Connected To The HVAC Ductwork.
Fresh Out-Door Air Takes This Path (in the Air-Intake Vent) Into The Home’s Living Spaces
- Outdoor Air enters the home through an Air-Intake Vent(s) located on outside walls.
- The fresh air is filtered and then becomes mixed with indoor air that’s returning to the furnace.
- All the air it’s heated or cooled (with central a/c) while inside the furnace.
- Then the fresh air is dispersed evenly throughout the home — through the HVAC System’s ductwork.
This YouTube Video Discusses Air Intake Vents
TIP: Air-Intake Vents Have A Screen. Air-Exhaust Vents Typically Have A Flap (that opens when the exhaust fan is running)
Image Source: YouTube Embedded Video Link.
Click On White Arrow To View The Video.
TIP: Any Of These Mechanical-Ventilation Systems Create The .35 ACH Required By Building Codes
Whole-House Exhaust-Fan
This System Recovers 0% Of The Heat or Cool From The Indoor-Air That’s Being Exhausted.
Image Source: Amazon.com
Shown: Whole-House Ventilation System (exhaust fan)
Shown: Broan-NuTone (brand) AE110LK (model) 110 CFM Whole-House Exhaust-Fan – With LED Light
Click On Image To; View Product, Read Details, or Purchase from Amazon.com
This System Is Installed In A Bathroom Ceiling.
110 Cubic Feet Per Minute (CFM) = 6,600 Cubic Feet Of Indoor Air Exhausted Per Hour.
Examples:
.35 Air Change per Hour (ACH) is required.
- 2.100 SF with 8′ ceilings = 16,800 Cubic Feet (CF).
- This fan exhausts 6,600 Cubic Feet per Hour.
- 6,600 / 16,800 = .39 ACH
- This fan is ideal for a 2,100 square foot home with 8′ ceilings.
- 2,000 Square Foot (SF) home with 8′ ceilings = 16,000 Cubic Feet Of Air. T
- The fan (just below) exhausts 110 Cubic Feet Per Minute -AND- 6,600 Cubic Feet per Hour.
- 6,600/ 16,000 = .41 ACH. This is a little higher than what’s needed.
- This fan may be ideal for a 1,900 – 2,000 square foot home with 8′ ceilings — where there are smokers or lots of cooking occurs.
TIP: Amazon Also Carries:
Broan AE80LK. 80 CFM – With LED Light
Click On Image To; View Product, Read Details, or Purchase from Amazon.com
Broan 678. 50 CFM – With Standard Light Bulb Socket.
For Fresh Outdoor-Air Intake — For Homes With A Whole-House Exhaust-Fan
- The Air-Intake is typically connected to Return Air Ductwork (air going to the furnace).
- When the furnace runs — it mixes fresh air with returned air.
- Then the furnace disperses all air (coming from the furnace) throughout the house.
Basic Whole-House Exhaust-Fan Systems Have A Manual Damper.
- The damper is pre-set to ensure .35 ACH — while the furnace is running.
- The damper remains open 24/7.
- This allows the correct amount of outdoor air to enter the ductwork — while the furnace is running.
- This allows some fresh air to enter the home — when the furnace blower is not running.
- This allows for more fresh air exchange — than is needed (.35 ACH).
Image Source: Amazon.com
Shown: Manual Damper
Click On The Image To; View Product, Read Details, or Purchase From Amazon.com
Upgraded Whole-House Exhaust-Fan Systems Have A Motorized Damper — To seal off the fresh-air intake vent when the blower motor isn’t running.
- The damper is pre-set open to ensure .35 ACH.
- The damper is open only while the furnace is running.
- When the furnace blower turns off — the damper automatically closes.
- This ensures that fresh air is not entering the ductwork 24/7.
- This system is more energy-efficient — because it’s open only when it needs to be.
Image Source: Amazon.com
Shown: Automatic Motorized Damper
Click On The Image To; View The Product, Read Details, or Purchase From Amazon.com
Best Mechanical-VentilationSystems Include A Whole-House Energy-Recovery Ventilation System
(There’s no whole-house exhaust-fan in a bathroom).
An Energy-Recovery System Recovers Much Of The Heat or Cool (from the indoor-air being exhausted).
Then, the Energy-Recovery System Reuses That Heat or Cool — to help warm or cool fresh outdoor-air entering the home.
Image Source: Amazon.com
Click On Image To; View Product, Read Details, or Purchase from Amazon.com
Shown: Whole-House Energy-Recovery Mechanical-Ventilation System.
In Winter: This System recovers about 3/4 of the heat from the air that’s being exhausted outdoors.
In Summer: This System recovers about 3/4 of the cool from the air that’s being exhausted outdoors.
TIP: Any Of These Mechanical-Ventilation Systems Create The .35 ACH Required By Building Codes
TIP: The Upgraded System is more energy-efficient than the Basic (manual damper) System.
TIP: The Best System is more energy-efficient than the Upgraded (automatic damper) System.
Lower Your Cooling Bill-2 Ductwork & Air Leaks Sealing
Without Replacing Your HVAC System
(Most Of These Ways Also Lower Heating Bills)
This Is Part 2 — Click Here To Read Part 1: AlsPlumbing.com Lower Cooling Bills 50+ Ways – Part 1.
This was Part-2 Of Our Multi-Part Article That Details 75+ Ways To Lower Your Cooling Bill — Without Replacing Your HVAC System. Al’s Plumbing, in Plano, Texas provides full-service plumbing; maintenance, repairs, and replacements for every plumbing component in your home.
We sell and install gas and electric water heaters. Al’s is near your home in; Plano, TX; Allen, TX; Frisco, TX; and McKinney, Texas. We service all homes in southern Collin County, TX, and northeastern Dallas County, TX with no additional travel charges.
Call Al’s Today To Discuss Any Concerns Or Problems You Have With Your Home’s Plumbing.
We will arrange an appointment at your convenience.
This Is Part 2 Of Our Article: Click Here To Read Part 1: AlsPlumbing.com 75 Ways To Lower Cooling Costs Part 1