11
May

Testing A Home For Air Leakage + Texas Insulation-6

By : Editorial
Housing & Homes

Testing A Home For Air Leakage + Texas Insulation Levels Over The Years-6

Lower Cooling Costs Without Replacing Your HVAC System

(Most Of These Ways Also Lower Heating Bills)

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This Is Part-6 Of Our Article — Click Here To Read Part-1: AlsPlumbing.com Lower Cooling Costs – Part 1

Part-6 Of Our Article Discusses Testing A Home For Air Leakage Plus Texas Insulation Levels Over The Years. Al’s Plumbing, in Plano, Texas Provides Full-Service Plumbing; Maintenance, Repairs, and Replacements For Every Plumbing Component In Your Home. We sell and install gas and electric water heaters. Al’s is near your home in; Murphy, TX; Rowlette, TX; and Wylie, Texas. We service all homes in southern Collin County, TX, and northeastern Dallas County, TX with no additional travel charges.

Call Al’s Today To Discuss Any Concerns Or Problems You Have With Your Home’s Plumbing.

We will arrange an appointment at your convenience.

Part-6 Discusses:

9. Testing A Home For Air Leakage (does not include ductwork leakage test).

10-A. TEXAS — Insulation Levels Required — By Year.
10-B. International Energy Conservation Code (IECC) — Insulation Levels Required — By Year.

Note: Most states’ Building Codes match IECC.

11. Only For Homes Built In 2012 Or Later — Mechanical Ventilation To Ensure Safe Indoor Air Quality.

12. Radiant-Heat Barrier In Attic — What, Where & How To Install For; Northern, Central, and Southern States (product & installation varies by location).

9. Testing A Home For Air Leakage

Testing A Home For Air Leakage — Then Sealing Air Leaks Notably Lowers Cooling Expense (& Heating).

Sealing Begins With Finding The Leaks.

NOTE: This Section Applies TO: PRE-2012 HOMES In Most U.S. States.

NOTE: This Section Applies TO: PRE-2017 TEXAS Homes

In 2021, Texas adopted the: Texas Building Energy Performance Standards — based on the 2020 IECC Code + 2021 IECC Amendments.

Starting Jan 1, 2013 — The U.S. Adopted the 2012 International Energy Conservation Code (IECC).
The 2012 IECC began requiring testing a home for air leakage with a Blower Door Test.
Homes must pass the test — before an Occupancy-Permit will be issued.

TEXAS:

2021 –– Adopted The Texas Building Energy Performance Standards — based on the 2020 IECC Code + 2021 Amendments.

November 1, 2016 –Texas Adopted The 2015 IECC.
Effective 11/1/2016 — Testing a home for air leakage became required. New homes in Texas must pass a Blower-Door Test. To pass the test, the homes’ air leakage must be notably low.

Source: http://bcapcodes.org/code-status/state/texas/

Source: https://eepartnership.org/program-areas/energy-codes-2/energy-codes/energy-codes-in-state-law/major-changes-overview/

blower door test

Image Source: Shutterstock

Shown: Temporary “Blower-Door” — For Testing A Home For Air Leakage + Air-Leakage Rate.

Air Pressure Effects On A Home

Air always flows from a high-pressure area toward a low-pressure area.
On The Side Of The Home Facing The Wind: Outdoor Air is at a higher pressure than indoor air. This causes air to enter the home through air leaks.
On The Side Of The Home Opposite The Wind: Outdoor Air is at a lower pressure than indoor air. This causes air to exit the house through air leaks.

** Source: https://basc.pnnl.gov/information/building-science-introduction-air-flow

A Blower-Door Test creates a vacuum inside the house.

The blower-door test replicates a 20 mph wind blowing on 1 side of the home.

During the Blower-Door Test — Most Air Leaks Become Readily Visible:

Particularly at windows and exterior doors.
If you put your hand in front of electrical outlets — you’ll feel air entering through them as well.

Places Where Air Leaks Are Less Noticeable:

Light Fixtures (unless your hand is near the fixture).
Under the wood trim where the walls meet the floor.
Inside kitchen & bath sinks cabinets (there are often air leaks where the water & sewer pipes come through the wall).

The goal of the Blower-Door Test is to identify places where a home is leaking air.

With those locations identified — air-sealing efforts can be focused wherever they will have the biggest impact.
It also eliminates air-sealing efforts that will have little impact.

The Blower-Door Test Result Divided By 20 = Air Changes Per Hour Due To Natural Air Leakage ACH.

TIP: When Testing A Home For Air Leakage — Expect Realistic Results From Air Leaks Sealing

Air Sealing an older home won’t make it nearly as airtight as a newer home. Newer homes are built much differently than older homes. Since 2012 Federal Mandate requires a home must exchange 1/3 of indoor air with outdoor air each hour — in order to maintain safe indoor air quality.

Why The 2012 Mechanical Ventilation Mandate Came About

New homes built during a few years prior to 2012 — had become too airtight.
They did not exchange enough air to ensure safe Indoor Air Quality.
A common term at that time was: “Sick Building Syndrome” (SBS) — because overly airtight homes & buildings were making occupants sick due to indoor pollutants buildup.

Sick Building Syndrome Indicators:

Occupants experience symptoms such as; headache, eye, nose, or throat irritation, dry cough, dry/itchy skin.
The cause of the symptoms is not known.
Most occupants felt better soon after leaving the building.

A Common Cause Of SBS: Inadequate Ventilation.

Prior to the Oil Embargo of 1973: Building Ventilation Called for 15 Cubic Feet Per Minute (CFM) — for each occupant.
After the 1973 Oil Embargo: National Energy Conservation Measures reduced 15 CFM to 5 CFM.
To have acceptable Indoor Air Quality (IAQ) — the American Society of Heating, Refrigerating & Air-Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) revised the ventilation standard back to 15 CFM.

** Source: https://www.epa.gov/sites/default/files/2014-08/documents/sick_building_factsheet.pdf

10. Texas Homes Attic & Wall Insulation Levels — By Year(s)

Adding Attic Insulation Is One Of The Most Effective Ways To Lower Cooling Expense (& Heating).

R-49 is achieved with 20″ of Blown Fiberglass Insulation.
NOTE: The Average R-value of 1″ of Blown Fiberglass Insulation = R-2.5
NOTE: If there’s existing BATT insulation — less blown insulation needs to be added to achieve R-Values shown above.

To Create R-20 With 2×4 Walls

3.5″ High-Density Fiberglass Batts Insulation = R-15

Plus

1″ Rigid Foam-Board Insulation Sheathing (on home’s exterior) = R-5

TIP: Air won’t pass through rigid foam-board sheathing. Taping the seams — creates a well-air-sealed home.

Image Source: Amazon.com Embedded Liink

Shown: Tuck Tape (brand) Epoxy-Resin Sheathing Tape

Click On Image TO: View Product, Read Details, or Purchase From Amazon.com (directly from our site)

R-Value Of Fiberglass Batt Insulation Commonly Installed In Texas Attics Over The Years:

3.5″ Batt = R-13
6″ Batt = R-19
Once R-30 was required most home builders began using blown fiberglass insulation only. Average R-Value for blown insulation = R-2.5 per 1 inch.
10″ Batt = R-30
12″ Batt = R-38

Click Here To See An Infrared Image Of An Attic Showing 170 Degrees: Infrared Image Shows Attic At 170 Degrees

If The Link Doesn’t Work — Copy This Into Your Browser: https://www.google.com/search?q=infrared+image+showing+attic+temperature&sxsrf=ALiCzsYHchsi_Dxb9XUnKAAKRzaImzgJsw:1652716005537&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&vet=1&fir=aoaDimsWYmvhcM%252CeWNSRxlfPLQPzM%252C_%253BeUXOJJz5l6i9MM%252C-QIIC-UD_bvosM%252C_%253BHRQxS1nAnI_oEM%252C9r6XYt2frWEQIM%252C_%253BqU_gN0QaqlqmOM%252C-QIIC-UD_bvosM%252C_%253BcMP6wcamq47mKM%252CQcpOz8Zhcke6IM%252C_%253Bb764Xqn0i-H09M%252C9r6XYt2frWEQIM%252C_%253BIOiQw_Mjt-r14M%252Copr2X61IzL00MM%252C_%253Bw0311yjlb61w0M%252C-QIIC-UD_bvosM%252C_%253BrDhWGgGdl9ptZM%252CHyrU8f5HUndm6M%252C_%253B3qkzorCIHslCSM%252CNIPmnNM24HfgXM%252C_&usg=AI4_-kTg1__ozMweSObRA2Y9VqBq7D0OBQ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjsuLLzruT3AhUylmoFHcN_AcAQ9QF6BAgFEAE#imgrc=aoaDimsWYmvhcM

In The Northern U.S.

In the northern U.S. — Adding Attic Insulation Reduces Cooling Expense Somewhat. It Reduces Heating Expenses Notably More, Due To Colder Winters.

snow on trees

Image Source: Shutterstock

During Winter In The Northern U.S.

Outdoor temps below freezing are common AND below 0 degrees aren’t rare.
Because nearly all attics are ventilated — attic temp is only slightly warmer than outdoors during the day. Attic & outdoor temp will be similar during darkness.
Heat from the living space rises into the attic.
Heating seasons are longer.

For Walls: At -10 Degrees, there’s an 80-Degree Difference for a home kept at 70 degrees.

International Energy Conservation Code (IECC)

Attic & Wall Insulation Requirements

Because improvements to Home Building Materials & Home Building Practices are constantly improving — The IEEC is updated every 3 years. Below is the IECC history for Attic & Wall Insulation Requirements since 2006.

Climate Zones (CZ) Shown Represent Climate “Bands” (south to north).

Click On This Link To See The IECC Climate Zone (CA) Map: 2022 IECC Climate Zones (CZ) Map

If Link Doesn’t Work — Copy this into your browser: https://basc.pnnl.gov/images/climate-zone-map-iecc-2021

Attic & Wall Insulation Requirements Of The International Energy Conservation Code (IEEC) Over The Years

NOTES:

Nearly all states base their Building Codes on IECC.
Some states don’t adopt IECC requirements immediately. For this reason, an individual State may have lower insulation requirements than IECC.

IECC Attic Insulation Requirement: IECC WALL Insulation Requirement:

2006 R-30 in CZ 1-4 // R-38 CZ5 // R-49 CZ 6-8 R-13 CZ 1-4 // R-19 CZ 5-6 // R-21 7 & 8

2009 R-30 in CZ 1-4 // R-38 CZ5 // R-49 CZ 6-8 R-13 CZ 1-4 // R-19 CZ 5-6 // R-21 7 & 8

2012 R-30 in CZ1 // R-38 CZ2-3 // R-49 CZ 5-8 R-13 CZ1-2 // R-20 CZ 3-5 // R-25 CZ 6-8 ^ increased

2015 R-30 in CZ1 // R-38 CZ2-3 // R-49 CZ 5-8 R-13 CZ1-2 // R-20 CZ 3-5 // R-25 CZ 6-8

2018 R-30 in CZ1 // R-38 CZ2-3 // R-49 CZ 5-8 R-13 CZ1-2 // R-20 CZ 3-5 // R-25 CZ 6-8

2021 R-30 in CZ0-1 // R-49 CZ2-3 // R-60 CZ 4-8 ^ increased R-13 CZ0-2 // R-20 CZ 3 // R-25 CZ 4-8 ^ increased — zones changed

Source: https://codes.iccsafe.org

R-Values Of Standard-Density + High-Density Fiberglass Batts & Injection-Foam Insulation

fiberglass batt insulation for wall

Image Source: Shutterstock

Note: A “2 x 4” board is actually 1.5″ x 3.5″.

3.5″ // R-13 fiberglass batts — are designed to fit in exterior walls framed with 2×4.
3.5″ // R-15 High-Density fiberglass batts.
3.5″ // R-16 Injection Foam Insulation. (Note: 1″ Of Injection Foam= R-4.5). *
6″ Standard-Density Insulation — Compressed Into A 3.5″ thick wall = R-14 (+R-1).

Note: A “2 x 6” board is actually 1.5″ x 5.5″.

6″ // R-19 fiberglass batts — are designed to fit in exterior walls framed with 2×6.
6″ // R-26 High-Density fiberglass batts.
5.5″ // R-25 Injection Foam Insulation. (Note: 1″ Of Injection Foam= R-4.5). *

* NOTE: Foam insulation reduces air leakage through walls. Fiberglass insulation can’t.

NOTE: Why You Don’t Want To Install Thicker Insulation Batts (than wall thickness) — And Compress The Insulation:

The air-pockets in fiberglass insulation become compressed.
The additional R-Value (of thicker insulation when compressed) is minimal (details just below).
Compressing batt insulation is not cost-effective.
To Raise Wall-Insulation R-Value — Use High-Density Batt Instead.

Source: https://www.jlconline.com/how-to/insulation/q-a-compressing-fiberglass-batts_o

A Great Way To Lower Cooling Expense (& Heating)

**Can Be To Add Exterior Wall Insulation To An Existing Wall.**

Likely The Easiest Way To Do This Is With (non-expanding, open-cell) Injection-Foam Insulation.

Click Here For A U.S. Map Showing The Presence Of Expansive-Soils: U.S. Map Of Areas With Expansive Soils

If the link doesn’t work — copy this into your browser: https://geology.com/articles/soils

Image Source: YouTube Embedded Video Link

Shown: Adding Injection-Foam Insulation Into An Interior Wall (often for sound-control)

To Skip This Section — Scroll Down To The Next Double Lines

11. Foil Radiant-Heat Barrier In The Attic

On a sunny day, when you walk under a tree, you immediately feel cooler. This is because the sun’s radiant-heat becomes blocked by the tree’s leaves. The sun’s radiant heat raises the temperature of everything it shines upon. Every surface (in the sun) becomes hotter than the outdoor temperature. This Applies To Home Attics Too.

In The Southern 1/3 Of The U.S. — outdoor temps often reach or exceed 100 degrees.
On those same days — attic temps can reach 170 degrees.

In The Southern 1/3 Of The U.S. a Foil Radiant-Heat Barrier blocks the sun’s radiant-heat from entering the attic (beyond the Foil). The Foil channels the heat upward toward the attic’s ventilation — where the heat exits the attic. The Foil is stapled to the bottoms of the Rafters (the edge facing the insulation). Rafters are what the roof deck is nailed to. The roof deck is what the shingles are nailed to.

In the Southern 1/3 of the U.S. — A Foil Radiant-Heat Barrier has a tremendous effect on cooling bills because the attic stays cooler. And, since most homes in the Sunbelt have their HVAC Ductwork (and often the furnace) in the attic — anything that keeps the attic cooler keeps the Ductwork cooler too. The top half of the photo below shows the: “Rafters’ Installation” of the foil.

In The Central 1/3 and Northern 1/3 Of The U.S. — A Foil Radiant-Heat Barrier is laid on top of the insulation.

Foil On Top Of The Insulation Does Two Things:

1. It reflects the cold in the attic (during winter) upward.

2. It reflects the heat (rising from the rooms below) downward.

These two effects keep the insulation warmer during winter — so less heat (from the rooms) moves into warmer insulation. This reduces both cooling & heating bills. The bottom half of the photo below shows the: “On Top Of Attic Insulation” installation of the foil.

Foil Radiant-Heat Barriers are very common in the southern 1/3 of the U.S. They are uncommon (or rare) farther north. They aren’t something many people (living further north) even know about. And most people would assume the Foil will cause the attic to be colder during winter (and it would be — if nailed to the rafters).

Image Source: YouTube Embedded Video

SHOWN ABOVE: The 2 Best Installation Methods For Foil Radiant-Heat Barrier

How Foil, Radiant-Heat Barrier WORKS In; Hot, Moderate, & Cold Climates

NOTE: Based On Home’s Location & Age: Foil Is Installed Differently AND A Different STYLE Of Foil May Be Required (details below).

Hot Climate (Southern 1/3 Of U.S.)

Foil Radiant Heat-Barrier Is Stapled To The Bottoms Of Attic Rafters.

NOTE: See The YouTube Video Above For WHERE To Install Foil Radiant-Heat Barrier.

Foil Stapled To The Bottom Of Attic Rafters Reflects the sun’s radiant-heat back into the gap (between the roof deck & foil). The heat rises & exits through the attic ventilation.

Moderate Climate (Central 1/3 of U.S.) & Cold Climate (Northern 1/3 Of U.S.)

Foil Radiant Heat-Barrier Is Laid On Top Of Attic Insulation.

NOTE: See The YouTube Video Above For WHERE To Install Foil Radiant-Heat Barrier.

Foil Laid On Top Of Insulation: Reflects cold in the attic upward & away from the insulation AND reflects the warmth downward & back toward the living space.

**NOTE A Different Style Of Foil Radiant Heat-Barrier Is Required For Older Homes.**

The Different Style Foil Has Larger Holes — To Allow Water-Vapor (coming from inside the home) To Escape Through The Foil.

Image Source: YouTube Embedded Video

SHOWN: SuperPerf Foil Radiant-Heat Barrier — With Much Larger Perforations/Holes.

AtticFoil.com SUPER PERF Foil

(If Link Doesn’t Work, Copy This Into Your Browser):

45″ Wide Perforated Double Sided Radiant Barrier Foil – SuperPerf™

TIP: To Determine If Your Home Needs The Foil With Larger Holes.

You Must Know: 1. The Year Your Home Was Built (it’s typically on Property Tax Records) AND 2. The IECC (2012 or later) Your State Used The Year The Home Was Built. **

If Your Home Was Built The Year After Your State Adopted The 2012 (or later) IECC — You Don’t Need The Foil With Larger Holes.

(The 2012 IECC Required Strict Air-Sealing In Newly-Built Homes).

Click Below To Check Which IECC — Your State Currently Uses And The Year It Was Adopted:

IECC Used & Adoption Year — BY STATE

(If Link Doesn’t Work, Copy This Into Your Browser)

https://www.nahb.org/-/media/NAHB/advocacy/docs/top-priorities/codes/code-adoption/state-adoption-status-iecc-june-2021.pdf

** As Of June 2021:

2 States (California & Oregon) codes exceed the 2021 IECC.
Note: IECCs Later Than 2012 — Include 2012 IECC Codes.
0 States use 2021 IECC.
17 States use 2018 IECC
15 States use 2015 IECC
3 States use 2012 IECC
3 States use 2009 IECC
7 States don’t use IECC & have no State codes for Energy Efficiency.

Please Note: We Do Not Recieve Compensation From AtticFoil.com