Al’s Plumbing, Heating & A/C in Plano, Texas is near your home in Plano, TX; Allen, Tx; and Frisco, TX.  We service all homes in southern Collin County, Texas and Denton County, Texas with no additional travel charges.  Al’s provides maintenance & repairs for all brands of Central A/C, Gas & Electric Furnace, and Heat Pumps. 

Additionally, we sell and install new HVAC Systems from American Standard (same company as Trane), Ameristar (company is owned by American Standard — but with lower features) and Coleman HVAC (company is owned by York HVAC).

Al’s also provides full-service plumbing maintenance, repairs and replacements for every plumbing component in your home.  Al’s sells and installs Rheem Professional Series gas & electric water heaters, and tankless water heaters.  Call Al’s today to discuss any concerns or problems you have with your HVAC System or Plumbing.  We will arrange an appointment at your convenience.

Image Source: ShutterStock

Is It Time For A New Furnace? 

As summer’s heat fades and fall’s cooler weather arrives, many homeowners start to consider if it’s time to replace their furnace.   As detailed below, your existing furnace’s efficiency is mostly determined by its age.   The minimum gas furnace efficiency in DFW today is  80% (in northern states, the minimum is 90%).

Homeowners in southern states have the option to buy a Hi-E furnace — but is it in their best interest?   That answer is based on the cost of the upgrade, home size, and your lifestyle habits regarding heating — we go into those details below.

Hi-Efficiency Or Standard Efficiency Gas Furnace

Which Is Best For You In DFW?

It Depends…

Image Source: CanStockPhoto

A standard-efficiency (80%) furnace has a metal vent pipe and open vent-holes in the front panel (to draw in surrounding air for combustion).

Image Source: CanStockPhoto

A Hi-E furnace has a white plastic combustion-air intake pipe & exhaust pipe, plus a solid front panel.  Because Hi-E furnaces have a solid front panel — they’re notably quieter.

• An 80% gas efficient furnace exhausts 20% of the heat generated with the exhaust.
• 80% furnaces have open air-slots in the front panel — where they draw in combustion-air from their immediate surroundings.  For this reason, they make notably more noise than Hi-E.

• In DFW — an 80% replacement furnace (installed within living space) — requires the installation of an outdoor combustion-air source. **
• If installed in the attic — outdoor combustion air is pulled through the attic’s ventilation.
• If inside living space, and furnace is not installed to today’s’ Building Codes — combustion air is pulled into the home through air leaks.

• Hi-E furnaces (90% — 97% efficient) — exhaust 3-10% of their heat.
• Their combustion-chamber is sealed (versus vented in 80%) — so they make much less noise.
• Hi-E furnaces draw outdoor combustion-air into the furnace through a PVC pipe.
• Hi-E exhaust is cool — so they vent exhaust outdoors through a 2nd PVC pipe.

** Texas Building Code 304.1:  “Air for combustion, and ventilation of flue gases, shall be provided.”

The charge for the outdoor-air intake will be added to the installed cost for furnaces located within the home’s living space.   This will narrow the installed price difference between standard and high-efficiency furnaces (their air-intake is part of their Hi-E furnace’s installed price).  For attic installations — the furnace draws air from attic-ventilation air-intake locations.

Is Furnace Noise Heard Inside Your Home A Problem?

• If your DFW home’s furnace is inside the living space — and the noise it makes is a problem, a Hi-E furnace will notably reduce the noise.

• If your DFW home’s furnace is inside the living space, and has a grill in the furnace closet’s door — this grill can be closed off with Hi-E (and with Std-E + outdoor-air intake installed).

Every Gas Forced-Air Furnace Makes These Noises

1. The 1st sound with every new furnace is a small fan (called an “inducer fan”).  This fan pushes exhaust-gasses out of the furnace to outdoors.  This fan turns on before, then runs the entire time the burners are running.  It’s required because the exhaust gasses are too cool to rise up the flue on their own.  Note: This fan is present on both std-e & hi-furnaces

2. The 2nd sound is when the burners light and are running.

3. The 3rd sound is the blower-fan.

With a High-E furnace — you’ll barely hear the first two sounds — because they’re inside a closed-off combustion-chamber.  You’ll hear the blower-fan with every furnace.

Image Source: YouTube Embedded Video

SHOWN: Click On White Arrow In Center Of The Image To Hear Furnace Noises

You Can Hear Each Furnace Noise At The Times Shown Below.

• Hear the (exhaust gasses) inducer fan turn on (at time: 0:29 / 3:04)

• Hear the burners ignight (at time: 1:18 / 3:04)

• Hear the noise reduction when the Hi-E furnace’s solid front panel is put back in place (at time 1:50 / 3:04)

• Note: A solid front panel has no effect on the blower-fan’s noise.

Outside / Fresh Air Intakes For Furnace Closets Inside The Living Space

TIP:

• When a gas furnace is located inside a furnace-closet in older DFW homes — the closet door has openings for combustion-air to pass through.

• With a Hi-E furnace (or Std-E with outdoor air intake installed per Texas Building Code) — you can replace the door with a solid one (or cover the vents on the inside of the door).

• This will notably reduce the blower-fan noise you’ll hear.

• Adding a weatherstrip at the bottom of the door will further reduce blower-fan noise.

Note:

• This can’t be done if a gas water heater is also located inside the closet (it needs to draw surrounding air for combustion & exhaust).

• Many municipalities require a fresh-air intake be added when a new gas water heater is installed.

• If the furnace closet has an outdoor-air intake for the water heater — it’s ok to close off the vents in the door.

Image Source: ShutterStock

Shown: A Louvered Door Allows Air To Pass Through For A Gas Furnace, Or Gas Water Heater’s Combustion-Air.  

Click Below To See A Photo Of A Outdoor-Air Intake Installed Inside A Water Heater Closet:

https://www.google.com/search?q=fresh+air+intake+near+water+heater+&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwi0x_rA5fLqAhVSZawKHfXuAhgQ2-cCegQIABAA&oq=fresh+air+intake+near+water+heater+&gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQA1CxwAVYj9wFYMXfBWgAcAB4AIABQYgB3QeSAQIyMJgBAKABAaoBC2d3cy13aXotaW1nwAEB&sclient=img&ei=55chX_S3GNLKsQX13YvAAQ&bih=646&biw=1280#imgrc=_oF75kJwqcZv0M

Tips For How To Determine If A Std-E or Hi-E Furnace Is Best For You

DFW Cost & Savings Analysis For Std-Efficiency Versus

A Hi-E Gas Furnace In A 2,000 Square Foot DFW Home

EXAMPLE: 

1. Heating Cost Comparison — 2,000 Square Foot DFW Home With 4 Occupants

• Using 97% GAS Furnace: at $9.71 per 1,000 cubic feet of natural gas        $505.00 Annual Fuel Cost – 97% Efficient Natural Gas Furnace. **
• Using 80% GAS Furnace: at $9.71 per 1,000 cubic feet of natural gas       $565.00 Annual Fuel Cost – 80% Efficient Natural Gas Furnace. **

** SOURCE:  https://www.energydepot.com/ResidentialEnergyCalculator/

2. High-E Upgrade Cost According to HomeAdvisor.com:

• The upgrade charge for a replacement Hi-E furnace (versus 80%) = +$1,300.00 — $3,800.00. 
• The actual charge is based on furnace size and how complicated the installation is.
• Replacing a standard-efficiency furnace with another standard-efficiency typically uses the same exhaust venting.
• Replacing a standard-efficiency furnace with Hi-E furnace requires running a plastic intake-air pipe, plus a separate plastic exhaust vent pipe.
• In an attic installation, running the vent pipes is much easier than if the furnace is located within the living space.

Source: https://www.homeadvisor.com/cost/heating-and-cooling/install-a-furnace/

3. At The Time This Article Was Written,  Atmos Energy (DFW natural gas supplier) Offered These Rebates:

• $350.oo for a gas furnace with 90-94% efficiency.
• $400.00 for a gas furnace with 95% or higher efficiency,

Source: https://www.atmosenergy.com/ways-to-save/mid-tex-appliance-rebate-program#:~:text=disqualify%20your%20application.-,Rebates%20apply%20to%20current%20Atmos%20Energy%20residential%20or%20business%20customers,2020%20and%20June%2030%2C%202021.

4. END RESULT: 

• Using the lowest upgrade cost of $1,300.00 (shown above) – $350.00 (rebate) = + 950.00 to upgrade from Std-E to Hi-E Gas Furnace.

• With a -$60.00 per year lower heating costs:  $950.00 / $60.00 — it would take 15.8 years to recover the upgrade charge — in a 2,000 square foot DFW home.

• In DFW, a gas furnace lasts around 15 years.

• Based on these numbers — in a 2,000 square feet DFW home — there’s no benefit to upgrade to a Hi-E furnace.

It Depends On The Home’s Size:

• What would be your charge to upgrade to Hi-E?  Your HVAC contractor will tell you.
• In a large home — the upgrade charge for Hi-E will likely be repaid with energy savings.
• In a small home — you won’t likely recoup the upgrade charge for Hi-E (depends on the upgrade charge).

It Also Depends On Your Lifestyle Habits.

• Is the heat turned down at night and while the home is unoccupied during the day?
• Or, is the temperature set the same 24 hours a day?
• How warm do you keep the house?

Note:  The comments are for Dallas-Ft Worth area (DFW).  The farther north you live, the more likely a Hi-E furnace will save money, regardless of home size.

If Your DFW Home Was Built In 1985 Or Earlier — The Cost For High-E Gas Furnace Upgrade 

Might Be Better Spent On Energy-Saving Upgrades

That Also Provide Year-Round Savings

Adding attic insulation — up to R-38 or higher.  Since DFW is a “cooling climate” (we use A/C more than the furnace) — the Hi-E furnace upgrade cost would be better spent on energy-saving home upgrades (if needed).   The older the home, the more savings these upgrades will generate.  And these improvements reduce both heating & cooling costs.

1. Add Attic Insulation — If Less Than R-38 (details below)

Image Source: ShutterStock

Texas Homes Insulation Levels That Were Common Or Became Required By Building-Code:

                           Attic Insulation         Wall Insulation

• 1950’s: none                                     none
• 1965-70: R-13 (4″ BATT)              R-6 (2″ BATT)
• 1970’s:    R-19 (6″ BATT)              R-6  (2″ BATT)      *3
• 1980’s:   R-30 (9″ Blown)            R-13 (3″ BATT)  *4
• 2014+:   R-38 (15″ Blown)           R-15 (3.5″ (BATT) *5

• *3 Source: https://snuggpro.com/blog/item/many-homes-built-prior-to-1980-were-built-without-insulation-in-the-walls
• *4 Source: https://www.jlconline.com/how-to/insulation-code-change_o
• *5 As required by the 2012 Edition of the International Building Code (IBC)

Does Your Attic Currently Have The Insulation Depth Required For R-38?

• 15″ of Blown Insulation is required for R-38 — at R-2.5 per inch of blown fiberglass insulation.
• If there is existing blown insulation — measure its depth to determine how much more you’ll need.

• If there is an existing 4″ BATT insulation — it’s R-13.5.  With 4″ batt — add 10″ of blown insulation to reach R-38.
• If there is an existing 6″ BATT insulation — it’s R-19.     With 6″ batt —  add  7″ of blown insulation to reach R-38.
• These insulation levels meet R-38 which is the current Texas Insulation Building Code requirement.

• The cost to add additional blown insulation will likely be less than you expect — if done at one time.
• Check with your insulation contractor for pricing for R-38 and R-53 (which is an additional +6″ of blown insulation).
• Insulating to beyond R-53 won’t produce worthwhile additional savings.

• Cooling costs will also notably be reduced.
• Additional attic insulation will make your home quieter.  If your home is located in a noisy location (particularly air traffic) — additional attic insulation will help.

Click Below To Learn How Attic Insulation & Many Other Home Components Can Reduce The Volume Of Outdoor Noise Heard Inside Your Home: 

AlsPlumbing.com How To Reduce Outside Noise In Your Home.

To Learn About Attic Insulation, Click Here: AlsPlumbing.com Lower Heating Costs With Attic Insulation

2. Ductwork Sealing

If Your Home Is More Than 10 Years Old

It’s Original Metal Ductwork Is Likely Leaking Up To 30% Of The Heated & Cooled Air Passing Through It

Image Source: ShutterStock

The U. S. Department of Energy (DOE) estimates typical homes lose up to 30% of the heated & cooled air from ductwork through holes, leaks, and loose connections. 

Click Here To See Several Photos Of Leaking Ductwork: Leaking Ductwork

NOTE: If you install a new HVAC System, the contractor may want to replace existing ductwork.

• If the existing ductwork is flexible — it only lasts the lifetime of one furnace and needs to be replaced.

• If the ductwork is metal — it may not need to be replaced.
• If the new HVAC System has similar air-flow volume (when the blower-fan is running) — the existing ductwork will work.
• If the new System has a higher air-flow volume — the existing ductwork may be too small.   But, it may be able to be modified to accommodate the larger air-flow volume.

• If you keep existing metal ductwork, have it tested for leakage and resealed if needed (it likely needs to be resealed).  Your HVAC Contractor can do that.

Resealing Existing Ductwork Can Lower Heating & Cooling Costs By Up To UP TO 1/3!

• Often, ductwork in older homes was not sealed when installed new.  In other cases, duct tape was used.

• Duct tape fails within days in a blazing hot DFW attic, where temperatures can reach 160 degrees on a sunny summer day. **

• Today ductwork is sealed with non-hardening mastic at the seams and connections.  Mastic can withstand temperatures in DFW attics during summer.

Click Here To See Ductwork Sealed At Seams and Connections With Mastic: Ductwork Sealed With Mastic (scroll down a bit)

** Source: Max Sherman & Iain Walker of the U.S. Dept. Of Energy (DOE) Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory performed a” bake-test” where sample ductwork joints were baked at temperatures of 140 to 187F degrees to test different ductwork sealing products.  They stated: “Only one duct-tape product survived 3 months —  11 Duct Tape products failed within days.” **

**Source: http://www2.lbl.gov/Science-Articles/Archive/duct-tape-HVAC.html

For More Ways To Lower Heating Costs Without Replacing Your HVAC System, Check Out Our 3-Part Article:

AlsPlumbing.com 20 Uncommon Ways To Lower Heating Costs

Furnace Efficiency Ratings Over The Years

The older a gas furnace is, the more fuel it wastes — in the form of hot exhaust gasses vented outdoors.   Today’s standard-efficiency (80%) furnace sends 20% of the heat generated outdoors with the exhaust gasses.   Hi-E furnaces send 3% — 10% (depending on the furnace brand and model).

Furnaces Are Categorized According To Their AFUE (Anual Fuel Utilization Efficiency) Rating.

A. 50% Efficient: “Octopus” Furnace.  Half Of The Heat Goes Up The Flue.

NOTE: Because DFW homes don’t have basements — none have octopus furnaces.  This information is for readers with old homes with a basement.

Click Here To See, And Read Details About An Octopus Furnace: Octopus Furnace

• An all original octopus furnace doesn’t have a blower fan.
• Because of no blower — the ductwork is very large.
• Some octopus furnaces were modified with an add-on blower.
• When new, most octopus furnaces burned coal.  Many were later updated to burn heating oil or gas.

Copy The Link Below Into Your Browser To See Ductwork With An Octopus (also called Gravity-Feed) Furnace:

https://www.google.com/search?q=octopus+furnace&sxsrf=ACYBGNSLLebmKuIoFz2RBSlz0KrQ6Ntqag:1568743012749&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi3-pKQt9jkAhVMs6wKHTTbALoQ_AUIEygC&biw=1280&bih=646#imgrc=6kT9Sku8zyaSlM

• All original octopus furnaces are nearly silent during operation.  All you’ll hear is the burners — if you are close to the furnace.
• Because octopus furnaces have only a valve (to control gas or heating oil) and no moving parts — they tend to last forever.  Octopus furnaces can be found today in some vintage homes.
• Because they are very hot during operation — it’s common for these furnaces to be covered in asbestos, and some also have asbestos inside them.

• With an octopus furnace — return-air (cool) registers are along the outside walls because those walls are cooler.  Supply-air (warm) ducts are on inside walls.
• With forced air furnaces — supply-air (warm) ducts are along the outside walls, and return-air ducts are along inside walls.

Forced Air Furnace Efficiency-Ratings Over The Years

B.  60% — 72%   Extremely Low To Very Low-Efficiency Gas Furnace.  Manufactured in the 1960’s — late 1980’s.

• Forced-air gas furnaces built before 1970 are around 60% efficient. *3
• Furnaces built between 1970 — 1977 are about 65% efficient.
• Many of these furnaces are painted green or gold.

Click Here To See A Furnace Built Around 1970: 1970 Gas Furnace 

• Furnaces built between 1978 — 1987 are around 70% efficient.
• Many of these furnaces will be painted shades of beige.
• These forced air furnaces were installed in newly built homes during the 1970’s — 1980’s.

• These furnaces were also installed as replacement furnaces in older homes.
• Furnaces with these low-efficiency ratings are still operational in many homes today.

These Components Will Be Found In 60% — 72% Efficient Gas Furnaces:

• Pilot Light
• Metal Exhaust Pipe.   The exhaust is hot enough to rise up the flue and outdoors on its own — no fan is required.
• These furnaces have a larger metal exhaust pipe (see photo just below).
• These furnaces send 28% — 40% of the heat generated outdoors with the exhaust.

*3 Source: https://htoyh.com/content/replace_your_furnace.pdf

Shown: Vent Holes In The Front Of An Older Gas Furnace — Efficiency Below 78%

Image Source: CanStockPhoto

Shown: You Can See The Flames When The Burners Are Ignited

Image Source: ShutterStock

C.  78% Efficiency Gas Furnace — Required Starting 1/1/1987

• Beginning 1/1/1987 — 78% Became Required Throughout The U.S.
• This applied to both replacement and newly-built home installations.

• These Components Will Be Found In 78% Efficient Gas Furnaces:  (Bolded Features were not present on earlier furnaces).

• Electric Ignition For Burners
• Draft Motor To Move Exhaust Gasses.  At this efficiency, the exhaust gasses are too cool to rise naturally up the flue.
• Smaller metal exhaust pipe than earlier furnaces.
• The smaller pipe is because a fan moves the exhaust out of the house.

D.  80% — Standard-Efficiency Gas Furnace  — Required Starting 1/1/2015

Click Here To See A 80% Efficiency Gas Furnace: 80% Efficient Gas Furnace

NOTE: In The Photo You Can See:

• Beginning 1/1/2015 all new furnaces had to be at least 80% efficient throughout the entire U.S.
• This applied to both replacement and newly built home installations.
• Today, 80% efficient furnaces are required in the southern U.S (90% is required in the northern U.S.).

• They have vent holes in the front panel of the furnace.  These holes are where the furnace draws air for combustion.
• The metal exhaust vent pipe is smaller than in the photo above.
• At the concrete block chimney, you can see the adapter than was required to connect the new furnace’s exhaust vent to the larger opening the old furnace used.
• Many of these furnaces will be painted shades of beige or gray.

These Components Will Be Found In 78% — 83% Efficient Gas Furnaces:

• Electric Gas Ignition For Burners
• Exhaust Draft Motor — This motor moves the exhaust gasses out of the home.   Once a furnace is 78% or higher, the exhaust gasses are too cool to rise up the flue on their own.
• Metal Exhaust Pipe.

E. 90%-98.5% — High To Ultra-High Efficiency Gas Furnace.   90% Required In Northern U.S. Starting 5/1/2013.

• Beginning 5/1/2013 — 90% efficiency became required in the northern U.S.
• Beginning 5/1/2013 — 80% efficiency continues to be required in the southern U.S.
• This applies to both replacement and newly built home installations.
• Most of these furnaces will be painted shades of gray.

Click Here To See A 90% or Higher Efficiency Gas Furnace: 90%+ Gas Home Furnace

Components In Hi-E Furnaces:

• Primary Heat Exchanger — for heating the house.
• Secondary Heat Exchanger — reclaims the heat within the exhaust gasses.   Because this heat exchanger is wet while operating, it is typically made of stainless steel.
• Sealed Combustion Chamber.  There are no vent holes on the front.  You can see the burners’ flames by looking through a small, glass opening on the front.
• Electric Ignition For Burners
• Exhaust Draft Motor — This motor moves the exhaust gasses out of the home.   Once a furnace is 78% or higher, the exhaust gasses are too cool to rise up the flue on their own.
• White PVC (plastic) Exhaust pipe.  This pipe could be installed horizontally because a motor moves the exhaust.
• White PVC (plastic) Combustion-air intake pipe.  Some of the first 90%+ furnaces had only the PVC exhaust pipe, and drew in combustion air at the furnace. 
• After a few years, all High-E furnaces had the 2nd PVC pipe for air intake.

Source: https://www.thespruce.com/gas-furnace-types-and-afue-efficiencies-1824743

A High-E Gas Furnace Includes A 2nd Heat Exchanger That Reclaims Heat From The Exhaust**

Standard Efficiency Gas Furnaces have 1 heat exchanger.  The sole purpose of the heat exchanger is to keep the home’s air and combustion-air separate.  A heat exchanger is a structure with metal pipes.  The heat & exhaust gases flow inside the heat exchanger to heat it.   Then the furnace blower fan moves air along the outside of the heat-exhanger — and and then into the home.

Shown: Primary Heat Exchanger Inside A Furnace

Image Source: DreamsTime

Click Here To See A Diagram Of A Standard-Efficiency And High-E Furnace: Std. & High E Furnace Diagrams

NOTE: The “Secondary Heat Exchanger” is located behind the components that are green in color.

If your existing furnace is High-Efficiency:

• It will have a PVC (white plastic) vent pipe to move the exhaust gasses out of the house.
• Nearly all will have a 2nd PVC pipe to bring combustion-air in from outdoors.

Shown: A Gas Furnace With At Least 90% Efficiency. 

Furnace Show Has Both A Combustion Air Intake Pipe & Exhaust Vent Pipe Made Of PVC (white plastic) 

Image Source: DreamsTime

Al’s Plumbing, Heating & A/C in Plano, Texas is near your home in northeast Dallas, TX; Richardson, TX; and Garland, TX.  We also service southern Collin and Denton Counties with no additional travel charges.  Al’s provides maintenance & repairs for all brands of Central A/C, Gas & Electric Furnace, and Heat Pumps.   Additionally, we sell and install new HVAC Systems from American Standard (same company as Trane), Ameristar (company is owned by American Standard — but with lower features) and Coleman HVAC (company is owned by York HVAC).

Al’s also provides full-service plumbing maintenance, repairs and replacements for every plumbing component in your home.  Al’s sells and installs Rheem Professional Series gas & electric water heaters, and tankless water heaters.  Al’s is near your home in Wylie, Murphy, and Rowlette.  We service all homes in southern Collin and Denton Counties with no additional travel charges.

Call Al’s today to discuss any concerns or problems you have with your HVAC System or Plumbing.  We will arrange an appointment at your convenience.