Al’s Plumbing, Heating & A/C in Plano, Texas provides maintenance & repairs for all brands of Central A/C, Gas & Electric Furnace, and Heat Pumps. Additionally we sell and install new HVAC Systems from American Standard (same company as Trane), Ameristar (same company as American Standard) and Coleman HVAC (same company as York HVAC).
Al’s also provides full service plumbing maintenance, repairs and replacements for every plumbing component in your home. Al’s sells and installs Rheem Professional Series gas & electric water heaters, and tankless water heaters. Al’s is near your home in Plano, Allen, Frisco, and McKinney. We service all homes in southern Collin and Denton Counties with no additional travel-charges.
Call Al’s today to discuss any concerns or problems you have with your HVAC System or Plumbing. We will arrange an appointment at your convenience and offer 24/7 Emergency Service
Whistling, Squealing or Banging Water Pipes — Causes & Cures
Plus Other Common Water Pipes Noises
The normal sound of water running through a pipe can’t be prevented. However, if you hear other noises (whistling, rattling, creaks, tapping, or loud banging noises) the water flow has been affected by one of several factors. We address these sounds, and how to fix them, within this article
Whistling or squealing water pipes results from water being forced through a smaller opening than the plumbing components were designed for. This is often due to: water pressure too high, wear & tear on plumbing components, water mineral build-up from the water, or other types of degradations.
Squealing / whistling water supply pipe noises are typically related to water pressure and/ or flow-velocity of the water. The higher the water water pressure or velocity (speed of water flow) the more likely the pipes are to whistle or squeal.
The noises can sometimes be reduced or eliminated by reducing water pressure OR water flow rate. Normal water pressure coming into a home is 45- 55 Pounds Per Square Inch (psi). Water pressure should not exceed 60 psi.
Your home’s water supply lines were designed to work best at around 50 psi water pressure at the location where water enters the house (the water-main line). Beyond that, individual lines have lower water pressure. The water main-line pressure is high enough to ensure several water sources can be flowing at the same time with adequate pressure for each.
You Can Do A Simple Test To See If Water Pressure Is Contributing To Squeals or Whistles : If the noise is at a faucet or toilet where a wall shut-off valve exists, partially close the wall shut-off valve to see if the noise goes away.
NOTE: You may not be able to turn the handle at a wall water shut off valve partially to do this test. Over time, water-shut offs can corrode. Forcing them can damage the shut-off and cause it to leak. If the shut-off does not turn under normal pressure from your hand, don’t force it.
Image Source: Flicker
Shown: Toilet Shut Off Valve Shown On The Left Side Of Toilet
Test Water Pressure With A Gauge That Screws Onto An Outside Faucet
Click Here To See A YouTube Video Discussing Screw-On Water Pressure Gauge: YouTube Screw-On Water Pressure Gauge
Water Pressure Reducing Valve
It’s Preset To 50 Pounds Per Inch (PSI) — It Can Be Adjusted From 25-75 PSI By Turning The Screw
Click Here To See A YoutTube Video About Water Pressure Reducing Valve: YouTube.com Water Pressure Reducing Valve
NOTE: New residential plumbing codes typically require a pressure reducing valve be installed when the home is built. Depending on its age, your home may already have one. Because of its distinctive “up-side-down ice cream cone” appearance, a water pressure reducing valve should visually stand out.
Where To Find The Water Pressure Reducing Valve (If One Is Installed)
If present, the Pressure Reducing Valve is located on the homeowner’s side of the water meter. In DFW slab homes, there is no access to the water inlet from inside the house — that’s why the shut-off is outside. If there is no pressure reducing valve in either box (details below), home probably does not have one.
1. The pressure reducing valve may be within the box in your lawn where the house water shut-off is located. That box likely looks similar to the water-meter box.
2. The valve may be inside the city’s water-meter box. The city’s water meter box is typically installed between the curb and the sidewalk in a green, oblong box with plastic cover.
An Older Pressure Reducing Valve May No Longer Work
An older Pressure Reducing Valve may have failed due to wear & tear, or due to mineral deposits build-up (from the water). If you see mineral deposits on your shower heads and faucets, you likely have mineral deposit build up inside other areas of your plumbing.
Image Source: Dreamstime ID 113255050
Shown: Shower Head Clogged With Mineral Deposits
Other Factors That Contribute To Whistling / Squealing Pipes
If the water pressure in your home is normal (around 50 psi) and you have squealing pipes, there are likely other factors causing the squeal. In faucets and valves, squealing can be caused by a worn out washer in a shut off valve. It’s a flat black rubber washer / seal.
1. Squealing may be due to wear & tear of a shut off valve’s rubber washers, or the valve’s seat may be worn (area just below the black rubber washer / seal) This can be at the wall shut off valve or the faucet itself.
2. It could also be due to mineral build up. Any of these problems can create reduced water-flow below what the faucet was designed for — resulting in a squeal.
Old Style (round handle) Water Shut Off Valve
Image Source: Dreamstime ID 118503423
Shown: Old Style (Round) Water Shut Off Valve Below
Current Style (lever handle) Ball Valve With 1/4-Turn Operation
Image Source: Dreamstime ID 61174911
Shown: Today’s Current Lever-Style Water Ball alve With 1/4-Turn Operation
NOTE: Some Municipalities Require Old Style Style Shut Off Valves Be Replaced With Lever-Style When New Work Is Done On Plumbing (such as water heater replacement).
Squealing Can Be Caused By A Clogged Faucet Aerator
Image Source: Dreamstime ID 94737840
Shown: Faucet Aerator Clogged With Mineral Deposits
Water Hammer
Water hammer is caused when water is rushing through the pipe and the faucet is turned off, bringing the water flow to an abrupt halt. This can rattle the water pipes (known as water hammer).
Typically there air chambers (water hammer arrestors) in the pipe (inside the wall) behind faucets. The air chambers allow a place for water to go when the faucet is turned off. The water will briefly push up into the air chamber where it hits a cushion of air. This prevents the water force from causing the pipes to rattle or hammer. Over the years, hammering may develop due to water hammer arrestor failure.
Built-In (soldered in place) Water Hammer Arrestor (Inside Wall)
When new homes are built, water hammer arrestors are added to the plumbing inside the walls near each water outlet (faucets, toilets,etc.). Over the years, these arrestors can fail and lose the air inside them. If they do, water hammer can result — sounding like a somewhat large bang. These devices are inside the walls and cannot be seen. Some screw into a fitting, others are soldered in.
Water Hammer From Toilet
Yet another noise problem can come from the toilet. If you hear a bang or rattle at the end of the tank’s fill cycle, it is likely a worn Fill Valve (also called ballcock assembly). This component is responsible for refilling the tank after each flush.
You Can Stop Water Hammer From Toilet With A Dedicated Hammer Arrestor For Toilet
Some dedicated water hammer arrestors for a toilet, it can be installed DIY. Many are designed to screw onto the threads from the wall shut off valve. The other end is designed so the water line (to the toilet) connects to it. This eliminates modifying the existing plumbing, and the arrestor is mostly out of sight from above.
Tapping Or Ticking Sounds
These sounds are typically due to expansion & contraction of the water pipes themselves. Hot water heats the pipe causing it to expand. Once the water stops flowing, the pipe cools and the metal contracts. During water pipe expansion or contraction, you may hear tapping or ticking. The source is often where the hot water pipe runs through wood IF the pipe is going through a hole where it fits tight.
If The Noisy Pipe Is Running Through Wood (inside a tight fitting hole)
That is often the location of the noise. If you can enlarge the size of the hole, that may stop the ticking (if that is the location of the problem). If you are not able to enlarge the hole, you may be able to reduce or eliminate the noise by spraying around the hole with Food Grade Machine Oil Spray.
While first application(s) may soak into the wood, several applications may eventually get enough product on the wood to saturate it. We recommend food-grade oil to minimize or eliminate toxic products sprayed inside your home. This product is described as “NSF H1 registered for incidental food contact”.
Insulate The Noisy Pipe With Foam Pipe Insulation
If you can’t find the exact location of the tapping / ticking, perhaps the next best way to minimize the ticking / tapping noise it is to put foam insulation around the pipe. This noise typically comes from hot water pipes expanding & contracting. Insulating them will allow them to cool off more slowly, minimizing the rapid noise once water is turned off. Unless that water pipe is used quite frequently, you will still hear the noise as the pipes heat up — though the noise may be quieter due to the insulation.
NOTE: Foam insulation is pre-cut. All you need to do is push it into place with the pipe aligning to the slit in the insulation. The insulation will expand a bit and then wrap itself around the pipe.
NOTE: Water pipes and foam insulation come in different diameters. Measure the width of the pipe to get the correct size foam insulation.
Pipe Rattling While Water Is Running
The rattling comes from a loosely attached pipe. This allows a water pipe to vibrate or rattle while water is running. When a loose pipe vibrates against something solid you, will hear a rattle while water is flowing.
- Secure The Pipe Tightly At The Location Of The Rattle.
- If You Can’t Find The Location Of The Rattle, Add Foam Pipe Insulation When Pipes Are Exposed. This will reduce the noise because the foam absorbs both noise and some of the movement causing the rattling.
NOTE: If you add water pipe fastening devices, check to be sure they are compatible with the type of water pipes your home has. Many different types of pipes require special types of fasteners.
To stop pipe rattling put some foam water pipe insulation cushioning around the pipe OR fasten the strapping more securely.
NOTE: If you add water pipe fastening devices, check to be sure they are compatible with the type of water pipes your home has. Many different types of pipes require special types of fasteners.
Al’s Plumbing, Heating & A/C in Plano, Texas provides maintenance & repairs for all brands of Central A/C, Gas & Electric Furnace, and Heat Pumps. Additionally we sell and install new HVAC Systems from American Standard (same company as Trane), Ameristar (same company as American Standard) and Coleman HVAC (same company as York HVAC).
Al’s also provides full service plumbing maintenance, repairs and replacements for every plumbing component in your home. Al’s sells and installs Rheem Professional Series gas & electric water heaters, and tankless water heaters. Al’s is near your home in Plano, Murphy, Rowlette, and Wylie. We service all homes in southern Collin and Denton Counties with no additional travel-charges.
Call Al’s today to discuss any concerns or problems you have with your HVAC System or Plumbing. We will arrange an appointment at your convenience and offer 24/7 Emergency Service